Alright so I was gonna surprise you guys but I ran into a problem. I got front and rear ST sways and today eyelessCRX and myself started to install the rear bar. So we began by attempting to unbolt the old one from the endlink on the driver's side, but after about a half hour of loosening (its in a really awkward spot for a socket wrench so theres only couple of inches to move at a time) I realized how rediculous this was. So we pulled out the crescent and sure enough the nut itself wasnt the only thing turning. Here's a picture:

Anyone know if this is supposed to happen? Is there a special way to separate the old bar from the endlink?
-Thanks

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

Yeah tomorrow after work im going to try something new. Im gonna slide back the ruber thats covering the end side of the bolt and see if there is anything to grab there to stop the bolt from turning. If anyone has an objection to this please let me know so I dont go ruining 98'ludes car.

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91' CRX HF (stock motor): AEM Short Ram Intake, Buddy Club Spec II Exhaust, Neuspeed Short Shifter, Tokico Lowering Kit, NGK Wires, Wings West RS Body Kit, GS-R Rims, Toyo Proxe T1R's, Pioneer Head Unit, 2 Alpine 12" Type-E Subs, 4 Alpine Type-S 5 3/4" Door Speakers, Custom Enclosure.

Hmm, I forgot how I did mine but I guess you can remove the endlink from the chassis and work on out of the car (might make it easier). I looked at the NTPOG rear sway install It might help you. Maybe once you get off you can put the round part of the endlink in a vice and get the nut of that way.

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Mike,

1997 Honda Prelude 5spd

Cool man thanks. Yeah it says in there to unbolt the other end of the endlink. I guess we'll try that tomorrow and hopefully that will work.

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

Cool, Good luck.

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Mike,

1997 Honda Prelude 5spd

not a bad thing to get upgraded end links while ur at it.....they compliment sway bars well and enable u to run them a tad softer if they are adjustable. remember structurally in terms of suspension

the component is only as strong as its weakest point/link. when it breaks. it will break at the weakest link. if u strengthen one area. another area is gunna be the weak point and so on and so forth.

so its a fine balance really. but solid/upgraded end links are a very good idea. i dont think u have too much risk of bending k frames/subframes due to your nature of driving. let alone if u did that u'd have far more many other things to worry about.

it looks ok. just be patient and dont do anything stupid. but yeah. replacement endlinks would make it easier. then u can just remove those end links and sort it out from there.

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Baller genetics...difficult takes a day....impossible takes a week

looks rusted on. try PB blaster.

we used teh PB-didnt work

Thanks again Kev for the advice I'll look around and see if I cant find some endlinks but my wallet is kinda hurtin right now so who knows.

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

Ok I'm not finding any aftermarket/upgraded endlinks, so I think I'm gonna go with new oem ones from honda for about $40 a peice to be safe -not too bad.

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

There's not a hex on the head of that round thing is there? Something to stuff an alan wrench in?

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Dont think so, and if there were I wouldnt be able to use a socket and it would take hella long. I'm just gonna detach the ones on there from the top and get new ones from the local dealership.

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top