So I did a compression test yesterday after I found out a couple weeks ago that my dad had bought a tester a year ago for our boat and never used it. All cylinders were at about 215 except one (second from the left) which was about 150. SH*T! Correct me if Im wrong but I believe this is due to either a scoared cylinder wall or a bad ring since I have also been experiencing a moderate amount of oil blow by. Anyone got any reccomendations for what I should do about this?

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

Gotta pop the head and have a closer look. With any luck it's just a ring that needs re-sealing. If the cylinder wall is gouged then you may need to bore and sleeve it.
Sucks dude...sorry to hear it.
I assume you tested it like a million times to be sure?

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Its either a bad ring or a headgasket on its way out. My friends did the same thing on one cylinder and it was the headgasket. You can unbolt the header and look to see if there is oil in there. Look in your radiator resevoir for oil also.

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1994 VTEC/SRV {}JDM H22a
[

considering you have blow by, i would rule out the headgasket, but its easy to see if you have oil in your water so might as well. my guess is if you are lucky rings, if not ring lands. regaurdless, hopefully no damage to the cylinder walls.

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well pray its just the rings and the land. I doubt if its the headgasket that might have caused some other issues that might have let him to know this sooner. YOU didnt realize this before you did the comp test? no symptoms?

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sorry guys, this is kinda off topic, but not really.

you said you have 215, is that at full throttle or with the throttle body closed. the only reason i ask is because youre supposed to do it with the throttle body all the way open and i did mine closed. but i only got 185 on 3 cylinders and 175 on one. should it be more psi with the tb open?

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WTB...92-96 lude jdm or usdm oem fog lights

all motors have a bit of blow by anyways.

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1994 VTEC/SRV {}JDM H22a
[

Could also be a valve issue too, but thats probabaly not the problem. You said you are burning oil so I would also lean towards a ring problem. At the least you would have to pull the head and oil pan, take that rod/piston out and run a ball hone through the cylinder, then replace the rings on that piston. If you go that route you might as well do it half ass right and pull the crank and all then do that to every cylinder then was them down with hot soap and water to make sure you get all the metal out of the crosshatches then put it back together.

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MySpace
My Shitz

Thanks to everyone for all the input, Im in NC right now and Im going to Myrtle beach on sunday for senior week so I wont be able to do anything untill the day after fathers day at the soonest. I definately dont have the tools or skills needed to tear everything apart myself so does anyone have an idea of how much this might cost me?

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

i'd estimate in the neighborhood of $1500 or more, depending on where you take it. that's a pretty extensive job.

I'd be willing to wager on bad rings, as I'm sure by now the 'Lude is probably getting up there in the mileage...

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2001 Honda S2000
201.63 whp : 135.74 ft/lbs

well you have 2 real options.....full build, or full build...

but for real, with dissambally of the engine and rebuild cost it will be close to 1600-2500 depending on the actual problem, a scored cylinder wall needs to be rehoned...piston rings etc etc

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Yeah shes goin on 115k miles. But at that price I might as well source a new engine Only problem is I definately dont have that kind of money right now so it wouldnt be untill around the end of the summer before I could get anything done.

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

just drive the car around as it is and start saving money. Its not going to hurt the car anymore than its already hurt

then once you get a swap, you can part out your motor and get some money back. I got like 800+ bux after parting out my old motor.

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H23vtec / Wiseco / Crower / Darton / Torco / Rosko Racing / RMF / eCtune Pro / BBmoto Tuned
Blakes Wiki

Thats exactly what I planned on doing. At the end of this summer I should have enough for the new engine. I'm sure it'll last me till atleast then, if not my granddad just gave me his 89 accord BEATER!

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

I just drove his prelude the other night. The only thing wrong with it is that his Vtec dissappeared. I was saddened.

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91' CRX HF (stock motor): AEM Short Ram Intake, Buddy Club Spec II Exhaust, Neuspeed Short Shifter, Tokico Lowering Kit, NGK Wires, Wings West RS Body Kit, GS-R Rims, Toyo Proxe T1R's, Pioneer Head Unit, 2 Alpine 12" Type-E Subs, 4 Alpine Type-S 5 3/4" Door Speakers, Custom Enclosure.