I have been having a problem with my car bogging and sputtering while warming up for the last few months. I thought it was the throttle position sensor, since that was the only cel being thrown, but I replaced the sensor and cleared the cell and the problem is still happening. When the engine is cool the car will crank for 10 or 15 seconds before it starts, then it will stall. The second time I start it the engine boggs when I give it gas and will sputter and hesitate until the engine warms. When the engine is warm the bogging goes away and the car drives much better, but you can still feel a slight hesitation and sputtering even after the engine has been warmed up. I have checked the FITV, IACV and MAP sensor, and they all seem fine. I am not throwing any more codes, and am completely lost as to what the problem could be. Any help would be greatly appreciated, since I really don't want to have to go to Honda and pay out the ass for them to fix it.

Adam

when is the last time u gave it a tune up? check your gapping of the plus? how many miles on teh car?

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KYB agx's,Skunk2 adj. springs, Front brembo OEM size rotors,EBc green stuff brake pads,UR underdrive pullie,50shot wet Zex direct port nitrous,Duel Purge Kit,B&M FPR, B&M fuel gauge, walbro 255lph FP, Oil catch can,Exedy Clutch ,Sparco Speed racing Seat,Sparco Race Harness,Sparco RING Steering wheel, Nitrous gauge, Duel purge kit. short ram intake(Fram), STR fuel rail, E-cut,VAFCII, Oil Pressure gauge (Phantom), Water Temp (phantom),Zex Nitrous Gauge, RSX wheeles with BFG T/A KDW in the front and OE tires in the rear.
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Well I changed the oil and plugs about a month ago. Oil is still fine and the plugs are the bosch two-prong ones that can't be gapped. The car has 122k on it but its a new engine with around 40k on it. A few people have told me to replace the distributor cap and rotor and see if that helps so I guess that is my next step. I will also probably get some ngk plugs and wires just to be sure.

yup..get some NGK. new cap...id wait before getting dizzy. them bastards are $$$.

most preludes ive raninto have some type of boggin issue. mine even does it once in a while.

change those things an get back to me.

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KYB agx's,Skunk2 adj. springs, Front brembo OEM size rotors,EBc green stuff brake pads,UR underdrive pullie,50shot wet Zex direct port nitrous,Duel Purge Kit,B&M FPR, B&M fuel gauge, walbro 255lph FP, Oil catch can,Exedy Clutch ,Sparco Speed racing Seat,Sparco Race Harness,Sparco RING Steering wheel, Nitrous gauge, Duel purge kit. short ram intake(Fram), STR fuel rail, E-cut,VAFCII, Oil Pressure gauge (Phantom), Water Temp (phantom),Zex Nitrous Gauge, RSX wheeles with BFG T/A KDW in the front and OE tires in the rear.
Vouch list: PreludeClone(SHO),US_Marine(SHO),getbig(SHO),Burnt Rubber87(SHO),v8killr(SHO)
www.tunewithcrome.com

check fuel pressure when it is cold and sputtering like that

also check spark while cold

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Well I pulled off the dizzy cap to check out it and the rotor. Cap seemed fine but the rotor was pretty worn down so I replaced it. Although this made it so my car started on the first crank, it did not fix the bogging issue. Then I decided to check the ignition coil too. When I disconnected the 4p plug on the bottom of the ignition coil I was surprised to find that one of the four sockets was missing the metal prongs inside the plug. Then I realized that there were only three wires going into the plug. I would assume that since the helms manual refers to it as a 4p plug that there should be four wires and four female ports to go with the four prongs on the bottom of the coil. I will take some pictures in a little while so you guys can see exactly what I am talking about. So I guess I am going to have to go to honda and see about replacing the connector and finding the lost wire.

how long since you last replaced the fuel filter? from my experience something cloged in there can cause rough idle, also try seafoaming the engine, just some simple sugestions

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Type _ R _ Mike looking for 92 - 93 or 96-97 integra 5 spd

parting out 91 Civic LX have many parts pm oem drive axle and oil pan

I have never replaced the fuel filter. And I already ran seafoam through the engine about a month ago.

Here is the picture of the 4p connector on the bottom of the ignition coil that I was talking about.


If you notice the metal contact points are missing in the bottom right socket. Also there are wires going to all of the other sockets, but not to that one.

I really don't think it is the wires any more. I have heard from numerous people that their plugs are set up the same way. However I have been talking to someone on another prelude forum and he said that if the timing is advanced all the way that the car will run like I have described and the car will throw a code for the knock sensor. I never thought of this because the p28 I am using doesn't support a knock sensor. But when I put in my stock p13 sure enough it was throwing a knock sensor code. I am hopefully going to check the timing tomorrow and see if that is the case.

those pin connectors are supposed to be missing... they're all like that. your ignition coil only needs those three wires... power, ground, and the ignition computer control power or something like that. So dont worry about that, it's not your problem.

if you've never changed the fuel filter... you should do that just for the hell of it. it's cheap, and good preventative maintenance, and it might solve your problem.

I'd get new plugs (NGK v-powers) and probably new NGK wires. another good first step with maintenance.

Jon's right, if the problem is only evident while cold, you're gonna want to check the fuel pressure, make sure it's adequate... it should be between 30-38 psi at idle, and about ten psi higher at WOT.

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2001 Honda S2000
201.63 whp : 135.74 ft/lbs

i bet its fuel related. Just from experience tuning my car and trying to get the idle right. If i take out too much fuel, the motor will get very upset and lean out . Then comes the sputtering and all that good stuff. Go to autozone and get your a fuel pressure test gauge. With the vacuum hose off the Fuel Pressure Regulator, your pressure should be at 45-47 psi.

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I've given up on trying to figure it out myself. I am going to try to bring it to honda tomorrow and have them look at it.