TechkaV's Progress thread [Lots of pictures] - Tuner-Junction

mad-ass · #1 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 04:22 AM

Hey TJ people, havn't been on here for a while..

just a little update on me for you guys.

I bought a 1995 Nissan 240SX base model with 145k miles on Automatic for $2000.

the engine has no problem what so ever, that was my main reason of this purchase. to get me out of Oklahoma to Colorado, then to California in 1 peice with out worrying about car falling apart. and I have no doubt that this car can make it if i can hit 100mph with out a problem still.

Anyways..seems like I'll be keeping this car for what it is and make it all "mine" to my standards. so here is my progress thread on my car.

I just made the To Do list on this car, and first one was to name the car, and I named it "TechkaV". When honda hits VTEC, it's the most awesome sound to my ears, so I couldn't ditch that anytime soon, so blended that into the name in reminder to pick up a Honda soon.

So, here we go!

mad-ass · #2 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 04:24 AM

To Do List on the TechkaV

1. Name it: TechkaV

2. LED Convertions
a. Dome Light: fix the wiring
b. Climate Control - Fixed
c. Gauge Cluster
d. Under dash
e. relay single LED to front to indicate break lights on along with backup light.
f. LED taillight convertion.

3. Tint
a. Peal off all the old tint flims - Almost finished, only got rear left
b. get a new tint job - Pending out of the list

4. Security
a. Install alarm system with keyless entry, trunk open.
b. Install GPS tracking device
c. install fuel cut off
d. install "Engine Start" button

5. Interior
a. Fix/replace Center arm rest hinge
b. cover center arm rest with padding/vinal
c. buy various clips for all the missing clips and clean/refit everything
d. Fiberglass cover the radio Bazel
e. 12V Cig lighter port - buy new and refit - Fixed
f. reattach/glue the ashtray cover - Fixed
g. Clean the carpet
h. clean the Seats
i. ceiling insulents
j. Sunroof - buy thicker weather sealent
k. Driver seat, buy nut for the tilt handle

6. Doors
a. Replace Door Panel
b. remove all sealent
c. replace lock acuators - Done
d. replace side pocket tray's - Temp Fixed
e. replace door handle covers - Temp Fixed
f. replace door sealent
g. adjust/fix window rails on driver side - Fixed
h. replace bolts that are worn out
i. degrease window rails and regrease

7. Head Lights
a. Black housing
b. 5000k HID
c. Projector from TSX/TL
d. LED Blinkers

8. Stance / Drive train
a. Full coilover setup
b. 5 lug convertion
c. Long studs
d. 5mm~25mm wheel spacers
e. Rims with deep dish
f. LSD
g. Sway bars
h. front/rear strut bars
i. under floor chassis braces

9. Breaks
a. Z23[300ZX] break caliper/rotor convertion
b. stainless steel break line
c. Hawk pads
d. slotted Rotors

10. Engine
a. SR20DET - Pending to go KA-T setup
b. Clutch
c. Flywheel
d. FMIC
e. Exhaust
f. Header
g. Intake Manifold

11. Body
a. Remove all dings and dangs
b. Sand down
c. Kouki Side skirts
d. Greedy Front lip - Pending to out be out of the list
e. Orginlab rear lip kit

EDIT: the numbers that are seperated isn't the order I'll be working on this. I just numbered'em off so i don't get confused. haha

EDIT: 27MAY07 Update

mad-ass · #3 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 04:27 AM

Just like How I picked TechkaV.
with all those crappy 10+ years old tint's gone bad with bubbles screaming "fuck yo couch" for the rear wind shield..so I can't see a thing threw the rear view mirror.

Lots of work to be done!

The bads....
-lots of dings
-after market sun roof. and for some reason, they primmered the whole roof gray.. and makes alot of noise when going 60+mph due to thin seals. but how ever it does not leak.
-looks like some bondo work and primmer cover all over the car
-front passenger side looks like it was in a light colision. the bumper shows cracks of paint. thus making the passenger front end not line up perfect.
-driver side window gear is missing some teeth, thus making it "click" loud when operating
-both door weather seal's are warn to hell and makes alot of wind noise when going 60+ mph. but it doesn't leak water!
-this seems like a common problem with 240sx's..the radio bazel trim is cracked and missing about 5" of the trim on driver side
-door panel's were "ripped" out of it's place and currently using washers to widen up the contact area with the bolt to hold in place. same with panel arm rest pocket and door handles
-rear window tint is bubbly as hell, i can not make out any car img out of it.
-driver side fuse box cover is missing all the clips, so it just "lays" over it's place, very loose
-the car is automatic
-center glove box's hinge is cut from it's base, needs new hinge
-sun visor's seem to have water damage for god know's what reason, need to replace
-climate control lumination lights don't work
-cig lighter port is corroded to hell and missing it's head holder so it goes straight back in when ever applied pressure to use.
-spare tire area is missing one of the large plug that blocks out side and the inside space, whole spare tire area on flat surface shows large areas of rust.
-the plywood that blocks the spare tire sucks, along with carpet.
-no rear speakers
-the blower doesn't work.
-window washer fluid pump is dead
-looks like missing plastic panel on passenger side trunk.
-breaks sucks, feels like air in break line
-when I apply breaks, I hear "thump" from the rear drive train, the previous owner told me his mech. told him it's the rear wheel bearings and he already has brand new one in the car, so I'll be replacing that next weekend and see if it helps any.
-needs new break pad/rotor. most likely going to upgrade to better one's. probably the break setup will be done before any "performance" mod list I've made.
-I can turn the car with my keychain and start/kill the car.[uh oh..how do i fix this?]

The goods....
-The car has close to 146k miles, stock engine on automatic transmission..but runs like a champion! No oil leaks anywhere under the engine bay.
-NO eletrical problem what so ever.
-I can hit 100mph with out a problem
-gets 28mpg city/highway driving.
-the headlights are in perfect allign hight/angle

mad-ass · #4 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 04:29 AM

Now the pictures...

^bird shit...goodness!

half done with stripping the rear side window tint off..god that's a bitch to work on!

mad-ass · #5 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 04:32 AM

I've noticed the dome light is burned out.
so instead of replacing the bulb, I converted the whole light system with LED's.

So, some explanation before the pictures.

I didn't know which wire is positive and negative. and I couldn't find a wire diagram for the dome light. So i gustimated which wire is for what, and now that I think about it..I think i wired some stuff wrong, but I havn't put it back in the car yet, so I'll find out tomorrow which wire is what.

I think the plug/connection to the dome light is both positive currents since I do see a negative/ground connected that is also connected to bolt that grounds to the chassis. but this is a easy fix

some basic instructions. and no I am not making a DIY out of this, simple circuit board with resistor's connection serise's of LED's. I used 100ohms 1/4 watt resistors with white LED's[I forgot the spec's on the LED's I've used today, bought them LONG time ago when I was doing alot of LED convertions, using left overs]

So 3 LED's per resistor, makes my life easier.

now pictures, I don't have it installed in the car yet, too late into the night and got lazy after i was done.

metal trim that covers the inside, I had no use for that so I took that off.

making marks for the cut for fitment and after math.

Test fitting the LED's and it's locations. as you see, I am using 12 led's, so that's 4 resistors for this application.

soldered the LED's in line except for the first positive leg and last negative leg to power the LED's. and fitted in the housing

1 hour later....

I use a old house cordless phone power adapter to test out my LED products as they are all for car application. it's output is 9V 350mh's. so it's bit less then what I will be getting from the car's currents. thus less brightness.

I used a super glue to hold the PC board in place. I cut about 1mm too small so i had to find a "tight fit" spot and glued at it's place.

The light output with out it's cover on. the computer body is 14" tall. pic taken about 4 foot away. Nice and bright/white.

The final work.

I'll edit this post to let you all know how it looks inside, and which wire is for what.

Thanks for looking!

-------------------------------------------
the next day.....

I reinstalled the dome light back in the car, only to find out there is a wiring fault in the system. my convertion works fine.

The light is very very dim, and only works when the key is in the ACC or ON position and when the door is open. I am thinking it's the wiring fault in the system because of those reasons. and plus this car is a after market sunroof and they might have screwd some stuff when they did this, perhaps they took the manual on power to power the sunroof motor. Not sure. any pointers?

njn63 · #6 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 01:34 PM

ls1 > sr20.

With any luck, i'll be able to make a post around the end of the month proving this.

xTimx · #7 (**permalink**) May 8th, 2007, 10:40 PM

looks like you listed more problems with the car than we anticipated!

hehe just joking. but it looks great! paint it bronze or some crazy color.

mad-ass · #8 (**permalink**) May 9th, 2007, 03:56 AM

Alright..no pictures from today, due to NO progress what so ever..but I did try some more things..

I worked on the window's again for a bit in a attemt to get the tint off..

and then started taking my dash apart to install my headunit...

right after i get to unplugging the antenna connection..it starts raining like a mofo..and it's still raining after 9 hours...awesome!

well, crap ass tires + shit load of rain + open parking lot = fun sliding

yup..my first attemp to slide my car around today, the rear looses it's traction really well with today's condition...it was awesome!

and also got new plates today..

all they had was "JCY-###' and she just pulled out what ever she had in her drawer..so i asked her..

me: "do you have anything that say's S14?"
lady: "not in my drawer...Hmm..."
me: "oh, actually, since all you have is JCY-###, can you find JCY-514?
lady: "I'll be right back...hold on"

2 mins later..

Lady: "yup..i found it."
me: "FUCK YEAH!"

so now..my plate says JCY-514...in translation..Jucy S14

charliemopps24 · #9 (**permalink**) May 9th, 2007, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mad-ass

so now..my plate says JCY-514...in translation..Jucy S15

Thats some good freakin luck man. Wish i could get a good n funny plate.

mad-ass · #10 (**permalink**) May 11th, 2007, 03:26 AM

Alright..
My climate control lights were burned out, seems like a common problem on 240sx's as well...

since it was burned out, and didn't bother looking up replacements for it..so more LED's!!!

No before picture because it simply didn't work before.

and my new headunit that I put in yesterday

other then that, I am just working on my back window in hopes of clear rear window! and I've decided not to tint my car. maybe after I am done with the car, but for now, tint's are off the list.

and my dome light seems to be wired off of ignition. very very interesting how it's wired as well..

the light only works when Driver side door is open and key is in "ON" position, and with headlight's off. any other conditions, they are just off. interesting...

Thanks for looking!!

mad-ass · #11 (**permalink**) May 16th, 2007, 05:01 AM

Alright, about half way done with stripping the rear window tint.
i fixed the window again, and it no longer squeaks or clicks.
it wasn't a broken tooth in the gear or anything, just about every bolt was loose on it.
I am trying to come up with some clever ways to fix my center arm rest hinge since i can't get to a junk yard anytime soon. so I'll post a fix on that. ghoto rig ftw.