TEH OFFISHAL Q&A FOR NISSAN SUSPENSION thread.....u bitches....

[KevlarRUN]

so shoot.
i am more than happy to write articles but cannot be bothered with simple definitions unless someone asks.
what do you ppl want answered? here at EastRUN we have first hand experience in all s-chassis including 180's/fastbacks.....so feel free to fire any questions.

[NismoCoupe]

lookin for coilovers for my coupe. k sport, megan, tein, jic magic

any suggestions

[chris_s14]

you can cross out ksport off your list. they are poo.

whats your budget?

[NismoCoupe]

Originally Posted by Kouki

you can cross out ksport off your list. they are poo.

whats your budget?

800-1100

[chris_s14]

Originally Posted by NismoCoupe

800-1100

for 1100 i'd get KTS beta coilovers. a lot of 240 owners gave them good reviews.

Specs:
Front coilovers feature 8kg/mm springs, adjustable shock length for height adjustment while maximizing stroke, inverted shock configuration with 38mm diameter piston, high pressure gas monotube construction, plated steel shock shell and aluminum upper adjustable camber plate. Shock is 15 way adjustable.

Rear coilovers feature 6kg/mm springs, adjustable shock length for height adjustment while maximizing stroke, 48mm diameter piston high pressure gas monotube construction, plated steel shock shell and aluminum upper mount. Shock is 15 way adjustable.

you can get them here. www.splparts.com

[KevlarRUN]

ur lookin into performance coilovers? or just entry level....personally remember: u get what u pay for, in terms of bound and rebound speed settings u wont have to worry about that. and as long as the spring isnt captive u will be fine without adjustable preload being independant of height adjustment.

dont go Aluminium coilovers, as cool as it sounds and as much as track cars use them cos they are lighter, and therefore less unsprung weight. they are a softer metal and under heat can result in heat bulge. thus losing compression in the damper. and u dont have the track expense budget as those cars who are sponsored by many corporations. ur looking for asimple coilover that does its job well, has GREAT durability and 1. height adjustment, and 2. EFFECTIVE damper adjustment

if u look at dyno graphs with the lieks of those cheapo coilovers, u'll see that per 'click' there's very little change in damper settings. let alone the speed of the bound and rebound.

u get what u pay for but just remember at the same time, if something is so adjustable, how often do u really think u'll be adjusting it let alone if u even understand the physics behind it to use them to their utmost advantage?

in terms of spring rates, 6 kg/mm isnt too bad....s13's tend to be quite light by nature which is also contributed by less chassis rigidity. quite important considering s13's have a tendency to understeer. anything in the 6-8 kg/mm range will suffice. it will help limit body roll. u dont want too much adjustment from beefier swaybars alone. as they are are a double edged sword. it gives u levelling at a cost of lifting the opposing wheel. if spring rates are too hard, and sway bars are too stiff....ur more likely to 3 wheel.....remember: suspension is there to help control and KEEP ur tyres on the ground.

josh and myself run high spring rates and stock sway bars. a common thing to do as a LITTLE bit of body roll is good....ever so slight.it helps buffer the stifness of the high spring rates and their lesser compliance to bumps. the little bit of body roll will help compensate for that. its a trick used even in performance GTP (grand touring production) cars.

alot of japanese names (i.e. fuckin kei office) are jap named but made in taiwan. i havent had direct experience with them but from trusted sources, they perform well while they last, but are not durable at all.

silk road FLT2's are good
EastRUN run Hipermax II's and Endless/Zeal Functions (in an s13. 7 front 5 rear, very good). both very good

apexi N1's are quite new and also perform quite well from what ive seen.

[NismoCoupe]

Originally Posted by KevlarRUN

ur lookin into performance coilovers? or just entry level....personally remember: u get what u pay for, in terms of bound and rebound speed settings u wont have to worry about that. and as long as the spring isnt captive u will be fine without adjustable preload being independant of height adjustment.

dont go Aluminium coilovers, as cool as it sounds and as much as track cars use them cos they are lighter, and therefore less unsprung weight. they are a softer metal and under heat can result in heat bulge. thus losing compression in the damper. and u dont have the track expense budget as those cars who are sponsored by many corporations. ur looking for asimple coilover that does its job well, has GREAT durability and 1. height adjustment, and 2. EFFECTIVE damper adjustment

if u look at dyno graphs with the lieks of those cheapo coilovers, u'll see that per 'click' there's very little change in damper settings. let alone the speed of the bound and rebound.

u get what u pay for but just remember at the same time, if something is so adjustable, how often do u really think u'll be adjusting it let alone if u even understand the physics behind it to use them to their utmost advantage?

in terms of spring rates, 6 kg/mm isnt too bad....s13's tend to be quite light by nature which is also contributed by less chassis rigidity. quite important considering s13's have a tendency to understeer. anything in the 6-8 kg/mm range will suffice. it will help limit body roll. u dont want too much adjustment from beefier swaybars alone. as they are are a double edged sword. it gives u levelling at a cost of lifting the opposing wheel. if spring rates are too hard, and sway bars are too stiff....ur more likely to 3 wheel.....remember: suspension is there to help control and KEEP ur tyres on the ground.

josh and myself run high spring rates and stock sway bars. a common thing to do as a LITTLE bit of body roll is good....ever so slight.it helps buffer the stifness of the high spring rates and their lesser compliance to bumps. the little bit of body roll will help compensate for that. its a trick used even in performance GTP (grand touring production) cars.

alot of japanese names (i.e. fuckin kei office) are jap named but made in taiwan. i havent had direct experience with them but from trusted sources, they perform well while they last, but are not durable at all.

silk road FLT2's are good
EastRUN run Hipermax II's and Endless/Zeal Functions (in an s13. 7 front 5 rear, very good). both very good

apexi N1's are quite new and also perform quite well from what ive seen.

thanx for all the info, took me a bit to read and comprehend but i got ya.

i have heard a couple things about silk roads. i am looking for pretty much a good setup for a beginner drifter. on a budget. with that in mind what setup do u suggest

[KevlarRUN]

although silk roads are made in taiwan they seem to be quite durable

but a level above are the tanabe DD's.....recently discontinued and replaced by the Tanabe Sevens......

budget? well those KTS ones arent too bad...the one's chris suggested
as i convinced him re: his adjustable arms (he's going battle version), is u have domestic support after purchase. a big thing in terms of purchasing something that isnt meant to last THAT long.......depending on how much puishment ur puttin them thru........at least u get after-purchase service with them.........i know a few of those guys in SPL.......

also while ur at it u may as well throw in the steel subframe bushes
at least they wont wear out like the standard urethane 'pineapples' let alone the steel ones keep ur diff pinion angle leve....urethane pineapples tend to change the angle depending on whether u want grip or drift........(induce squat or prevent squat).......just go steel and be done with it. helps prevent axle tramp and tightens up the rear end like a motherfucker. best bang for buck in terms of handling. ur car feels alot tighter and grip threshold to slip is alot easier to determine from in-car.

[NismoCoupe]

Thanks for all the info guys u rock. im gunna be review the products and comparing them and also costs to see which i will go with.
im leaning towards the KTS, they seem to be highly recommended also on NICO online so i will just weight out things

Originally Posted by KevlarRUN

although silk roads are made in taiwan they seem to be quite durable

but a level above are the tanabe DD's.....recently discontinued and replaced by the Tanabe Sevens......

budget? well those KTS ones arent too bad...the one's chris suggested
as i convinced him re: his adjustable arms (he's going battle version), is u have domestic support after purchase. a big thing in terms of purchasing something that isnt meant to last THAT long.......depending on how much puishment ur puttin them thru........at least u get after-purchase service with them.........i know a few of those guys in SPL.......

also while ur at it u may as well throw in the steel subframe bushes
at least they wont wear out like the standard urethane 'pineapples' let alone the steel ones keep ur diff pinion angle leve....urethane pineapples tend to change the angle depending on whether u want grip or drift........(induce squat or prevent squat).......just go steel and be done with it. helps prevent axle tramp and tightens up the rear end like a motherfucker. best bang for buck in terms of handling. ur car feels alot tighter and grip threshold to slip is alot easier to determine from in-car.

[KevlarRUN]

u have to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with user reviews. most ppl havent had much experience in various coilovers let alone the fact that they wouldnt even know how to JUDGE what a good coilover should or shouldnt do

most ppl tend to justify their purchases to make themselves feel better about their buy, so they talk nothing but good of it

let alone most ppl put reviews on their FIRST coilovers. well hell....most things are better than stock in terms of "FEEL".....not necessarily performance

[NismoCoupe]

Originally Posted by KevlarRUN

u have to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with user reviews. most ppl havent had much experience in various coilovers let alone the fact that they wouldnt even know how to JUDGE what a good coilover should or shouldnt do

most ppl tend to justify their purchases to make themselves feel better about their buy, so they talk nothing but good of it

let alone most ppl put reviews on their FIRST coilovers. well hell....most things are better than stock in terms of "FEEL".....not necessarily performance

this is true.

i have ridden in a couple cars with megan coilovers. it seemed pretty solid and can handle a beating. havent been in one with KTS.

[KevlarRUN]

dont do megan. and remember, u get what u pay for. this concept is true with coilovers.......

[chris_s14]

how do you guys clean your coilovers?

[BoostRevolution]

So I should just go with a stiffer spring rate with springs, over doing stiff springs with stiff swaybars?

[KevlarRUN]

Originally Posted by BoostRevolution

So I should just go with a stiffer spring rate with springs, over doing stiff springs with stiff swaybars?

really depends on a whole bunch of factors
general weight of car.......read as above.......
if i were u i'd get the coilovers first before the sway bars....then if u dont like that set up then get adjustable sway bars front and rear and keep playin with them until u like them........its a real personal preferance thing.....but i dont like using sway bars (aftermarket thicker ones) to simply level my car....

[KevlarRUN]

Originally Posted by Kouki

how do you guys clean your coilovers?

we dont iono...while im cleanin my car...i just make it high pressure and just squirt around in the wheel wells......but thats about it.....

[KevlarRUN]

no more questions???? man u guys suck......weaktown.....lol

[chris_s14]

Originally Posted by KevlarRUN

no more questions???? man u guys suck......weaktown.....lol

alright

if i adjust my ride height again do i have to go get another alignment?

[SamHatesLag]

kev may disagree with this....


keep your suspension stock for a drag car and for a twisties/touge car. for a street/track/drift car go nuts

[KevlarRUN]

chris: yes u definitely do if u wish to keep the same settings in the toe/castor (for the front)/thrust angle and camber department.
everything is linked to each other. if u drop ur car lower, everything changes. the camber and castor may not bother u too much....

sam: depending on which model, s13's have pretty bullshit suspension set ups stock, s14 and 15 arent too bad although i'd prefer upping the spring rate into the 5/4 kg/mm range with valving to suit.

drag.....stock suspension is pretty darn decent. u want alot of compliance for the tyres to basically squat and have maximum tread......