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SR Harness Wire Color Use KA

Black / Pink stripe Fuel Pump Relay Black / Pink stripe

Green / Orange stripe Transmission Neutral Sensor Green / Orange stripe

Red / Black stripe ECU Relay Red / Black stripe

Green / Yellow stripe AC Relay Green / Yellow stripe

Red ECU Backup Power Red

Black / Red & Blue / Red (connect together) Main Ignition Power Black / Red stripe

Black / White stripe ECU Power Black / White stripe

Blue / Green stripe AC Relay Blue / Green stripe

Black / Yellow stripe Idle Air Control Valve Power Black / Yellow stripe

Brown (to O2 sensor) O2 Sensor Power Any 12v switched source


Extra wires on the KA harness are not used and should be pulled from the harness after everything else is hooked up. It is not safe to leave unused wires in the harness!




Here is the Best INfo


SR Swap Guide: follow step by step and everything will go right and work the first time!

Preparing the SR20DET engine for installation

1) Use whichever motor mounts are in better condition, KA or SR
2) Remove AIV assembly bolted to head above the turbo, and remove the pipe running down to the exhaust.
3) Remove lower turbo shields.
4) Replace O2 sensor, if necessary.
5) Inspect the turbocharger. Look for excessive shaft play and leaking oil or coolant. Remove power steering pump and A/C compressor.
6) Inspect oil pan. Replace if necessary
7) Inspect all belt and belt adjustment assemblies. Replace as necessary.
8) Check all rubber hoses for cracks.
9) On the back of the engine, heater hoses MUST be modified since the JDM heater core is on the opposite side:
10) Remove L shaped backing plate
11) Trim the rubber turbo coolant line to allow bracket and line to be pushed towards the passenger side to bolt into the next hole over.
12) Attach a U-shaped heater hose to the steel outlet on back of engine. This will connect to the rest of the heater hose near the top of the valve cover. Make sure the hose is tight.

Preparing SR20DET Transmission

1) Remove SR shifter. Using two flathead screwdrivers, with one screwdriver
begin prying the upper square C-ring up from one end. With the other screwdriver,
walk the ring out of the recess. Lower clip will come out with the shifter.
2) Remove dust collar from SR tranny. The collar is located on the end of the
tranny where the drive shaft connects to the tranny. Take a piece of wood and a
hammer and knock it off. It will not be reused. Instead you will be using the KA dust collar. Using a flat piece of wood; tap it on. It is a tight fit, but does work.
3) Remove clutch. Inspect clutch and flywheel. Replace clutch if necessary. Have flywheel machined if necessary.
4) Replace the throw out bearing. Use a large socket, piece of wood, and hammer to knock out the old bearing and install the new one. Only tap on the solid center of the bearing.
5) Replace throwout bearing/ carrier assembly back onto input shaft. Replace shifter fork, attaching securely with the wire clips.
6) Using the clutch alignment tool, bolt the clutch pressure plate and disk onto flywheel.
7) Pick up tranny, and install onto engine, using the bellhousing bolts.
8) Bolt on starter.
9) Connect starter, alternator, and oil pressure sensor wiring
10) Secure lower wiring harness out of the way of the passenger side motor mount.

Preparing The Car

1) Make sure gas tank is almost empty, with only 92 or higher octane in it.
2) Remove battery. Before removing battery, put electric windows up or down, whichever you prefer.
3) Jack up the car and remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the radio trim panel, under steering column trim panel, and passenger kick panel.
5) Remove, front fender liner, front bumper, and main bumper core.

Engine and Transmission Removal

1) Disconnect all hose, wires, and cables in the engine bay.
2) Remove the two motor mount nuts
3) Remove power steering pump, so that you can unbolt the A/C compressor, then place the compressor out of the way by the stock airbox location.
4) Remove radiator
5) Remove mechanical fan and fan shroud
6) Place main harness over fender so that it is out of the way
7) Remove KA shifter (using same technique as earlier)
8) Drain gear oil from tranny
9) Remove carrier bearing bracket and driveshaft
10) Jack up tranny and remove four cross member bolts
11) Detach downpipe from exhaust manifold
12) Remove tranny mount bracket from cat
13) Remove entire exhaust system
14) Using an engine hoist, attach the chain to the head, using strong bolts
15) Drop the tranny using a jack
16) Pull engine and tranny out as one unit, being careful not to damage the power steering rack lines

Engine and Transmission Installation

1) Attach the engine hoist chain to the SR head, using strong bolts. Position the chain to lift at an angle with the tranny pointing down at a 45 degree angle
2) Move the engine into the engine bay, pushing down on the tranny end so that it clears the firewall
3) The chain will have to be repositioned several times fitting the engine to the motor mounts. DO NOT rest the engine on the power steering rack lines
4) A jack must be placed under the tranny to totally get the engine in place
5) Once the motor mounts are in, attach the tranny cross member, bolt everything in place, remove the chain hoist
6) Replace the driveshaft
7) Fill the tranny with 2 3/4 qts of gear oil
8) Reinstall shifter, boot, trim

Power Steering

1) DOHC power steering bolts right on with no modifications required
2) SOHC must use DOHC power steering line and reservoir Air Conditioning
3) KA compressor wire from over by the MAF must be used, not the SR one
4) DOHC compressor bolts right on, using 2 of the 4 SR bracket bolts
5) SOHC requires custom made bracket Radiator and Fan
6) The SR mechanical fan does not line up with the KA radiator shroud, so you will need an electric fan

Wiring Harness and Electrical Connections

1) There are three plugs on the end of the KA and SR harness that run behind the stock battery location
2) Although the plugs do snap together, the wiring will be wrong
3) You have to cut two of the plugs off, and use the table included in the "SR to KA wiring guide". Cut the two main KA plugs and splice them onto the SR harness
4) The MAFS and Power Steering sensor wires must be extended, using the KA wires, to reach over to the front driver's side of the engine compartment.
5) The A/C Compressor wire from the KA engine bay harness MUST be used. DO NOT use the SR harness A/C wire, even though it fits the plug.
6) Unmentioned wires do not need to be connected.........

• SR Harness Wire Color - KA Harness Wire Color (use KA)
• Black / Pink stripe Fuel Pump Relay - Black / Pink stripe
• Green / Orange stripe Transmission Neutral Sensor - Green / Orange stripe
• Red / Black stripe ECU Relay - Red / Black stripe
• Green / Yellow stripe AC Relay - Green / Yellow stripe
• Red ECU Backup Power - Red
• Black/Red & Blue/Red(connect together) Main Ignition Power - Black / Red stripe
• Black / White stripe ECU Power - Black / White stripe
• Blue / Green stripe AC Relay - Blue / Green stripe
• Black / Yellow stripe Idle Air Control Valve Power - Black / Yellow stripe
• Brown (to O2 sensor) O2 Sensor Power - Any 12v switched source

ECU and Dash Wiring

1) The wire colors on the wires that run from the ECU into the dash match up perfectly on the SR ECU harness and the KA dash harness

Wire Color Use

• Yellow / Red stripe Tachometer signal
• Yellow / Green stripe Speedometer signal
• Orange Ignition start
• Black Ground
• Blue / Green stripe AC signal
• Blue / Black stripe Water temp signal

On the KA, the remaining wires go to the "check connector". They are not necessary for the SR…

Fuel System and Vacuum Lines

1) Use high pressure fuel injection lines and good clamps with a new fuel filter to ensure reliability.
2) When attaching the fuel lines, do not mix them up or the engine will not run right. The fuel pressure regulator end of the fuel rail is the return side; do not attach it to the fuel filter, which is the supply.
3) The vacuum lines are simple:
4) lines start at the throttle body. The bottom one goes to the canister, block it off. The larger one on top runs to the bypass valve (BOV). The smaller top line tees to the fuel pressure regulator, and runs across the front of the engine to your boost gauge and/or the boost pressure port on your boost controller.
5) The wastegate gets its signal from the nipple on the intercooler piping.

Startup, Testing, and Timing

1) Fill the engine with oil and coolant
2) Fill the power steering reservoir
3) Connect the battery
4) Install the power steering and AC compressor belts
5) Disconnect the Crank Angle Sensor plug to prevent the coil packs from firing to allow oil circulation before the engine is started
6) Crank the engine over, 20 seconds at a time, 3-5 times, pausing between cranks, until the oil pressure warning light in the dash goes out. If it doesn't goout after a reasonable amount of time, you can start the engine but be very careful – if the light stays off, shut the engine off and you will have to prime the oil pump manually by pouring oil into the lower turbo oil line hole in the block. This usually works to get a no oil pressure situation fixed.
Once the engine starts and runs the idle should settle down very quickly if all the wiring is correct. Let it idle for a minute and then shut it off. Check oil, coolant, look for leaks in heater, radiator and fuel lines. Start it back up and set the timing to 16 degrees using a spark plug wire on the 1st cylinder. Dust and oil from transport will burn off the engine for a while.
7) Take her for a ride; have fun but be gentle until you are positive everything is functioning correctly!

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Baller genetics...difficult takes a day....impossible takes a week