Same story every springs!

Check:

-Battery terminals tightness or for corrosion

-Did you let the poor thing all winter long without a charge?
Dont expect it to do a miracle and start right up!

1-put it on a charger the day before (VDC electronics,Battery Tender)
2-Unplug the front lights(they draw as much as 2 volts on start-ups)
3-Check if the fuel petcock is on
4-Stab the starter 3-4 times,at 1-2 seconds each times no more,then attempt starting the bike...but dont hold the starter button for too long(over 4 secs)
5-Apply 1 TIME ONLY a bit of gas with the throttle...no more.
6-If its not starting after all those procedures,try bump-starting it.

-Check battery voltage;it should be near 13.2 volts with ignition off,near 14v with engine reved to 5k rpms.

-If it wont hold a charge,have the battery load-tested(bring it there,dont ride there as the test will discharge it,then you may fry the R/R)after you had it properly charged.

-Check the R/R connectors;its on the battery tray,under the seat.

Did not used gas stabilizer?

-Remove carbs and clean all small components...this requires a complete dis-assembly.

Attempted a start-up,but it took so long that the battery died,and you applied a lot of throttle with full choke on?

-Check your spark plugs;they may be wet...remove and let them dry,or if you`re in a hurry,replace them.

The good biker spring drill:

-He had a charger on all winter
-He has spare spark plugs
-He cleaned his bike of all dirt,grit and corrosion before storing it
-He used gas stabilizer with the proper amount prescribed by the manuf.,no more with the drill that is let the bike run or run it till he was sure the stabil was everywhere in his tank(which was full)
-He`s making sure that rodents did not made their home in the airbox

I`m sure other steps should be mentioned here,so please do add them.

HOW TO CHECK STATOR AND RELATED HARDWARE

From Sam!

Well, it sounds like a number of people here have been telling you that 13~13.5 volts coming out of the R/R is insufficient to charge the battery,....and they are absolutely, positively,......correct.

If you don't believe them, then maybe you will believe me. I have been working with mobile electrics and charging systems for over 30 years; 25 of those professionally.

If you are interested, I can repost several articles I have written about how mobile charging systems work.

Here is all a person really needs to know about how to diagnose their R1 charging system.....

In regard to lack of charge:
1) Charge the battery overnight (7~12 hours), not to exceed 24 hours. You may exceed 24 hours if you are using a ‘smart charger’.
2) Disconnect charger and allow battery to stand for 30 minutes. Check the battery voltage with a digital voltmeter. The voltage should be around 13.3~13.5. If the voltage is less than 12.5, replace the battery.
3) Install known good battery into bike and start engine. After warm-up, bring engine speed up to 5000 rpm and measure the battery voltage at the same time. The voltage should be about 14~14.5 volts. If the voltage is greater than 15, the problem is most likely the rectifier/regulator. If the voltage is less than 13.5, then it’s either the alternator (stator coil) or the rectifier/regulator, or possibly even both.
3a) SIDE NOTE: A problem that seems to occur with the R1 rather frequently is the 3-terminal stator coil connection fails and the resultant heat from the I*R drop melts the connector. In addition, the red-wire contact on the rectifier/regulator connector also has a history of oxidation/corrosion. Be sure to check these!
4) To check the stator coil (alternator), measure the coil(s) resistance at the 3-terminal connector with an ohmmeter. The resistance reading between each coil (three total), should be 0.45~0.55 ohms @ 20C (68F). If not, replace the stator coil. Be sure to negate (subtract) lead resistance from your readings. To do this, touch the meter leads together and note the value of the resistance reading; subtract this value from your stator coil readings.


NOTE: Attempting to read around 0.5 ohms on an analog meter is difficult enough on the X1 scale, much less the X10.

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2003 R1

full yoshi tri oval carbon pipe, ohlins damper, PCIIIR (custom map), zero gravity double bubble screen, afam sprockets -1 front, DID 520 chain, clear aternative tail lights w/ integrated turn signal, custom front sprocket cover (w/ yamaha forks cut out), removed chain guard cover, meztler m1 tires, carbon fiber chicane mirrors, carbon fiber fairing inlays, carbon fiber rear hunger, red running lights bulbs, Gilles rear sets(Gold), painted rear passanger pegs(black), k&n air filter, vortex frame sliders, vortex gas cap & base (black), pazzo shortie lever(black, gold adjs), hel braided brake lines front and rear

If you don't ocassinally ride your bike during the winter, regardless of your state and its weather conditions, you're a little sissy ass rider Think about it, if you don't have the urge to ride it & only want the bike in summer to squid around in T-shirt & Tennis shoes then you don't really deserve the bike.

Battery Tender is a must if you don't ride often or have aftermarket accessories such as modified lights/alarm/heated grips etc.

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in ny its not easy to ride off season. The weather just isnt that great to ride in all year round or im sure alot of people would. ive never seen a bike out in the winter in ny.

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dude if u think that not riding in the snow makes 1 a squid then im the president of all squids

why risk an accident, if you can avoid it.
last time i check, cold weather = cold tires = bad things on a bike.

i hope that u live some where like in the north east, to be talking about people not ridin in the winter, and not some where in florida.

__________________
2003 R1

full yoshi tri oval carbon pipe, ohlins damper, PCIIIR (custom map), zero gravity double bubble screen, afam sprockets -1 front, DID 520 chain, clear aternative tail lights w/ integrated turn signal, custom front sprocket cover (w/ yamaha forks cut out), removed chain guard cover, meztler m1 tires, carbon fiber chicane mirrors, carbon fiber fairing inlays, carbon fiber rear hunger, red running lights bulbs, Gilles rear sets(Gold), painted rear passanger pegs(black), k&n air filter, vortex frame sliders, vortex gas cap & base (black), pazzo shortie lever(black, gold adjs), hel braided brake lines front and rear