Figured I'd start a write-up on my project cat. I guess it could be considered a DIY or a build-diary. Anyhoo, onto the good stuff

The car is a 1994 eagle talon tsi awd. I traded an old porsche non-turbo porsche 944 for it. The car came with a 6bolt swap, but the motor was blown (150 n2o jet accidentally installed with a 100shot fuel jet). It's black leather interior, sunroof, power everything.

The body is in okish condition.

I'll copy and post what I can from my local forum build diary, and carry it on from where it is now.

Once the engine was pulled, and stripped down, I made a tool to remove the Balance Shaft bearings before the motor went to the machine shop. It ended up turning into a $10 BSEK kit (if you are a local DSMer, I can help you out with this)



First I got an offcut of 1 3/4" aluminum round stock, and chucked it up in the lathe:
http://us.f3.yahoofs.com/users/41b0cf...

I parted off about a 5" length:
http://us.f3.yahoofs.com/users/41b0cf...

I then cut material away, until it was slightly smaller than the I.D of the balance shaft bearing:
http://us.f3.yahoofs.com/users/41b0cf...

This is for putting the bearings back into the block. To take the "old' bearings out, in good condition, so they could be reused, I thought I would make another tool. I decided that the same tool could be used, on the other end. After measuring it all up, I only took a tiny tiny ammount off the rest of the body of the tool. I could have almost left it as it came, but wanted to clean it up.
I then turned nice round edges (apart from the "big" end, to get a good fit when tapping out the bearings), to make the tool easier to use.

To use the tool, the "big" end goes against the top of the bearing, and is tapped with a hammer until the bearing comes out. After the block got back from the machine shop, I seated a bearing over the "small" end, and tapped the bearing into place (changing the direction of the oil feed hole).

For the stub shaft, I chucked the rear (oil pump) balance shaft into the lathe, and parted off just the stub, and turned the end slightly to give a nice edge. You then need to fill the oil feed hole in the shaft. A setscrew, welding (probably even JB weld) will work for this, but do it, it's a MUST!
The only part I had to buy was the rubber coverd plug, for $10 bucks.
http://us.f3.yahoofs.com/users/41b0cf...
(to those with a keen eye, in that pic it is actually a factory mitsu stubby shaft I had )

The hole in the stub needs to be filled. This can be drilled/tapped then a screw/bolt with loctite, welded, or jb welded. This is the most important part!!
So, all in all, it cost me $10 and about 20 minutes of work.

Here is the crank in, and torqued down, with a new set of bearings. I got quite lucky, all of the clearences were mostly smack-dab in the middle. Not too loose, not too tight, and it had almost 0 runout.


Here is just an outside shot of the block. It looks dirty, but it isn't. I spent hours and hours pressurewashing it, then scrubbing with some Simple Green, after it had been hot tanked. Now it's sort of oxidizing. I'll hit it with some high temp black today or tomorrow, and it should look 'pretty'.


This was supposed to be a picture of the cylinder, to show the really nice hone-job, but I had trouble getting the camera to focus. This was before I cleaned up the deck.


Pistons and rods that are going in the block. Still waiting on the rings to show up from NoLimitMotorsports. I hope they are here by saturday. Also in the box, on the bottom right (the over exposed baggie) is the spool for the tranny.

The front cover/oil pump cover, waiting to be dis-assembled, cleaned, modded, and re assembled:
http://members.cox.net/kanscrx/P1010077.JPG







Rusty threads


Rod's are cool:


Balance shafts are goooooooooone




thats all for now, more to come soon.

Just a suggestion, I noticed assembly lube in the box of one of your pics. I will never use that stuff again i had abad experience with it. All i use now is Lucas oil additive it works much better. The assembly lube can turn to a crystal like substance once it gets hot and stop up the oil journals in the crank, learned this from first hand experience. Remember just a sugestion.

__________________

I've had bed experience as well with assembly lube. Just use regular ol valvoline non-synthetic oil and its great. Use the same oil to break in the motor as well. Just let her crank with the starting motor a few times before initial start up to get some oil pressure and flow up to the head. Do this by pulling the fuel pump/injection fuse.

__________________
96 Civic Hatch
***12.9 @ 103 drag radials WOOT!!**
211 WHP @ 9500
JDM B18C (only 1000 miles on it
Bored .20 over w/JDM Type R pistons
11.5:1 Compression
Portflow ported head
3 Angle Valve Job
Skunk2 titanium valvesrings/retainers
skunk2 stage 2 cams
skunk2 intake mani
00 civic SI tranny
Hyperclutch stage 2
light flywheel / crank pulley
JDM 4-1 header 2.5 inch collector
2.5 inch test pipe
5Zigen Fireball cat back
B&M FPR with gauge
AEM CAI
MSD ignition
P28 ECM OBD-1
Bubba Built and Dyno Tuned

Thanks for the heads up guys, I'd never heard that before

I'll try that on the next one and see how it works out.

Your welcome, another good suggestion for prepping and cleaning your block. Go to your local HomeDepot and buy a gallon of muratic acid for about $8.00 put in a spray bottle and spray it all over your block. (WARNING) Only do this in well ventilated area as the fumes from the acid will take your breath away and make you vomit. (personal experience talkin their). After you've completly covered the whole block with the acid let it stand for about 5 minutes. Wash off with straight water, this will not remove any paint but it will take any trace of oil, grease, or rust off leaving the block looking brand new.(Shiny). This can be used on any type of steel. (DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM) It will eat a whole right through whatever your cleaning if used on aluminum.

__________________

quit whoring a tech thread guyz :mad:

__________________
Alex-'93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

Cleaned your thread up, Come on folks he's trying to post his build and keep it tech. Please post whore in OT thank you.

Looks like a badass build. Have fun with it.

Also, if you need anything I have a 94 parts car.

very nice, keep up the work mang

__________________
YA baby just like that.....

yeah keep up the good work. lookin good.

__________________
2001 Honda S2000
201.63 whp : 135.74 ft/lbs