My shop has a B18C1 longblock for sale for $800. It has 70k on it, and is all stock. I had him do a leak down test, and 3 of the cylinders wer 1-2%. One cylinder was 12%. Im worried about this. He said it could be because it has been sitting for 2 months and the oil has drained into the pan, and it could need a valve adjustment. What do you guys think? Is 12% too much to use, or do i need it rebuilt?

Proceed with caution....

Do a valve lash adjustment as recommended. Follow up with a compression test. 12% is not that great, it's really borderline. See if you can pin point were the leak is.

Hissing from dipstick = rings
from intake = intake valves
from exhaust manifold = exhaust valves
bubbling from radiator = head gasket

Above is not always scientific, but it helps if you see any of notice any of these symptoms while doing the leak down.

Personally, while the engine is out I would do the rings and possible the bearings. That's just me though.

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The motor isnt in a car. Its on a pallet, and cant be turned over. Thats why i had a leak down done, not a compression test. Im going to have the mechanic adjust the valves on it, to see if we cant get that number up. Id really prefer not to have to get into the internals. A rebuild would run me 1700, and labor is 500. Replacing the rings is about as time consuming, so id still be paying the same amount. I wish i knew how to do it myself, but i never have been that far into a car motor before. Ive rebuilt single cylinder motorcycles before, but never a four stroke four cylinder.

a rebuild shouldn't cost that much at all if labor is $500...

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2000 S2000 Hardtop

nine.five.four.

Get your Tuner-Junction stickers today: http://tuner-junction.com/TJForum/showthread.php?t=4377

Thats with a type r oil pump, b16 pistons, timing belt, water pump, rings, bearings, gaskets, the whole 9 yards.

Are the type R oil pump gears different?? I have mine lying around doing nothing, maybe I should sell them.

Anyway, my remarks were based on the assumption you were doing the wrenching.

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You should still be able to turn the engine over. even if its not in the car. with a socket wrench i think a 14 would do and you can turn it. if its stuck then theres a problem. what are the exact readings. I would be really careful with this block.

Youre not that far away... wanna help me out?

Seriously though, Id love to do the wrenching myself, but I really am afraid id f*** something up. Either have it not start, or have it start and grenade when i hit vtec.

Im fairly comfortable doing the swap myself. Ive been working on my friends Eagle Talon the past few weeks, and weve pulled two motors so far (one from a wrecked car and one from the good car that was blown). Were getting ready to put the good motor back in, and pending a good outcome, Id tackle the job myself.

Building motors isn't that hard. Um.. just get really good instructions and follow them religiously. Take your time. Search in the engine tech forum for a writeup (well, a link) on properly building a b18c bottom end.

I'd be kinda scared that the block is cracked though. Not saying it is but you always have to kinda plan for the worst case scenario.

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2000 S2000 Hardtop

nine.five.four.

Get your Tuner-Junction stickers today: http://tuner-junction.com/TJForum/showthread.php?t=4377

Whats the easiest way to tell? Do you have to break it apart to know?

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I talked to the guy today- he said the leak was at the rings. He would put new rings on all 4 cylinders for $300 including parts for me. $1200 for a B18C1 longblock with new rings. Sound good?

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I talked him down to $1000 for the longblock with B16 pistons and new rings.

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