Ok, I'm writing this thread after a conversation with xTimx over the msn where he sort of told me he's stuck with his swap...

Don't know if i'm forgetting out things or maybe translate something wrong, so please add comments to the steps below...


1.
Just dive under the hood and disconnect every plug you see attached to the engine...
Disconnect clutch and throttle cable, and squeeze yourself between intake and engine to disconnect the speedo cable on the back of your tranny...

2.
Drain all fluids... simple
It's wise to remove the radiator as well... keeps you from damaging it, and gives more room to jiggle the engine when taking it out...

3.
Place the car on jack stands and take of both front wheels. remove bottom nut which connects the hub to the susp. there's a split pin thru the nut which you have to take out first... It might take some effort to loosen the hub, we always just smack the arm with a hammer and it pops out quit easily...

4.
Move the hubs up a bit, and pull out the axles...
Make sure to use a screwdriver/pry bar to do this. Pulling them from the ends MIGHT pull them apart

5.
Get yourself underneath the car, and remove the bolts from the exhaust.
While you're down there dismantle the shifter rods.
You're going to need a punch to remove these. If you don't want to play with a punch under the car, you can just drop the shifter assembly from the car itself.. well, that's how i've seen a few people do trannies at least.
That might be a little interesting with the entire motor.

6.
Get back under the hood and remove the bolts of the front and rear engine mount... the engine is now hanging in the left and right mount...
Now check if everything connecting the engine to the car is loose, and the engine is ready to take out.

7.
Lift out the engine slowly making sure your not damaging anything, you haven't got much clearance so be carefull...

8.
Repeat steps above in reversed order to put engine back in...



This basically goes for any crx engine...

This is just a start and I know that there's a lot of people who are more experienced than me on this so please add comments to this thread...
I'm sure we can make it a usefull one!



Oh and please comment on language mistakes aswell... i'm dutch remember..

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Make sure to use a screwdriver/pry bar to do this. Pulling them from the ends MIGHT pull them apart.

You're going to need a punch to remove these. If you don't want to play with a punch under the car, you can just drop the shifter assembly from the car itself.. well, that's how i've seen a few people do trannies at least. That might be a little interesting with the entire motor.

I personally never had a problem with the punch though.

When pulling the engine, i also sometimes like to pull the radiator. It's only a few bolts and if you hit it with the motor, it's going to be broke. Oh, and take the hood off too! Pretty much anytime i'm doing major stuff on a car i do. It's 4 bolts and it's out of the way completely.

From what i've heard it's easier to take engines out/put them in through the bottom. I've always gone through the top but that's the way honda does it. I assume you have a cherry picker but if you don't this is always an option. Little write up on how to swap motors without a cherry picker: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1552578

Um.. i'm sure i forgot some stuff. But for the most part d-series motors are just pull it out and put the new one in. Not too complex.

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2000 S2000 Hardtop

nine.five.four.

Get your Tuner-Junction stickers today: http://tuner-junction.com/TJForum/showthread.php?t=4377

man, i have been there, it kills your labor time when you have to put them back together

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I've updated post 1....


Keep em coming guys... i think this can become a good usefull thread!

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good info

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"Don't take life so serious you'll never make it out alive"

Not that this is recommended but when i pulled my motor last sat i just took the tranny off so i didnt have to mess with the axles, or suspension. Also it really wasnt that hard to pull it out with leaving the tranny in there imo.

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i just use one of the adapters that u use in a drill , seems to work as good as a punch!

When i pulled my engine last year i did it from the bottom of the car. its a bitch lifting the car high enough to get the engine out. i reccomend in getting the engine lift especially if you plan on doing more engine work on cars to come. Plus you can rent it to your friends to get the money back for it. the thing pays for itself if you pull atleast two motors. Also remember before you start any work pull the battary and ecu out just incase anything touches. Better safe than sorry.

c'mon guys keepem coming...i need help with it! lol winfreak had the start of it! thanx for the help peeps

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" I think i seen a lamb still alive on the side of the road...it was still twitching....so i backed over it with my jetta " - kenny blankenship - mxc

"sex over 60, is like shooting pool with a rope"

An electric impact gun makes life sooooooo much easier. One of the best inventions ever.

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James C.


Check my vB garage

think an impact wrench that is battery powered from canadian tire would work?

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" I think i seen a lamb still alive on the side of the road...it was still twitching....so i backed over it with my jetta " - kenny blankenship - mxc

"sex over 60, is like shooting pool with a rope"

I like the plug in ones, you dont run out of juice or air pressure halfway through a job. Plus I think they have better torque. idk
Like this They have em for $145 at my local home depot though.

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James C.


Check my vB garage

hmmmmmm gona have to go check them out at home depot then. thanx

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" I think i seen a lamb still alive on the side of the road...it was still twitching....so i backed over it with my jetta " - kenny blankenship - mxc

"sex over 60, is like shooting pool with a rope"

Instead of disconnecting every electrical plug you see, just disconect the plugs on the right and left side of the engine bay that connect the engine harness to the main chassis harness. Also disconnect the 2 power terminals in the fuse box on the passanger side of the engine bay. The harness is much easier to remove from the engine when its out of the car.

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1991 CRX HF with a D16a6 swap.
OBX Short shifter, E-bay intake, SI rims, SI front brakes, SI radiator, KYB AGX shocks all around,
Tenzo R seats
Comming this tax season- Turbo A6

This thread ROCKS!!!

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R y w i r e . c o m - G e t _ R y w i r e d .
Engine Swap Wire Harness Conversions and ECU Conversion Harnesses
My parts for sale

There are a lot of good steps in here. I've had the 1.6 SI engine out of my car more times then I care to talk about and I have a procedure. It's pretty much outlined here (give or take). Rather then going through all of my steps I'll add a little twist. My list will consists of things that will most likely screw you over

BTW...... pick yourself up the mentioned electric impact gun, or if you have a compressor get an air powered gun. You will use it the rest of your life. Just do it, end of story

Things that suck with CRX engine removal:

1) separating the lower control arm from the hub assembly (lower ball joint).

• don't be afraid to use a REALLY big hammer.
• Assuming you are smart and put the car on jack stands. take off the 17mm castle nut from the lower ball joint (impact gun). Once off, thread another 17mm nut on slightly, just enough to cover the whole nut. Place a jack under the ball joint nut you just threaded on. Slowly, and CAREFULLY raise the jack. Raise it enough until the suspension has some slight load on it. DON'T LIFT THE CAR OFF THE JACKSTAND!! If confused think of the goal here, we're trying to put a lot of the vehicle weight on the ball joint itself, not the lower control arm. Doing this your loading the ball joint (assuming you didn't thread the nut on all the way).
• Once this is done. Take your big ass hammer and smash away at the lower control arm. The closer to the ball joint the better. It will be challenging not to hit the jack, but try your best. Doing this I have found is the best way to separate the stubborn lower control arm.
• You CAN'T use a ball joint "fork" separator unless you plan on replacing the ball joint because you WILL tear the boot.
• Smacking the lower control arm seems barbaric, but trust me I learnt this from a Honda technician a long time ago.

2) While we're on this topic the tie-rod nuts will be a pain without a impact gun also.

3) The damn suck ass shift linkage.

• I have a personal nightmare story about this. You MUST use a 8mm punch. You may be able to get away with some other type of punch or tool, but make damn certain it's not a "pin point punch". Meaning don't use one that's sharp and then gets thicker. The problem is you'll notice (once you get it out) that the pin is hollow. and if you drive something up from the middle it will expand the pin in the shift linkage. So the harder you hit it the more it gets stuck. I have done this before and I consequently had to drill it out. Let's just say 4 hours and 6 broken drill bits, very bad scene. Be smart, buy the damn 8mm punch for $10.00, again it's a tool you will keep for life.

3) Getting the engine not to hit things as it's coming out is a huge bitch. Take some extra time and remove these items, it will make your life easier.

• alternator
• radiator
• distributor cap (you may not care about breaking this)

4) A lot of you coolant hoses are going to be stuck, expect some skinned knuckles getting them off. Also, the Honda "spring" radiator clamps that are found all over the place are best removed with right angle needle nose pliers (another tool for your collection)

5) Springs bolts and nuts on the cat. Heat and ZEP45 are your friends. Expect that some may be stripped, if so use some huge vise grips and patience

Some specialty tools you should have handy for this (I'm assuming you have a good set of "standard" tools:

• Impact gun (electric or air)
• 8mm punch
• long 1/2 extensions
• good set of impact sockets
• 1/2 & 3/8 swivel adapter
• right angle needle nose pliers
• straight "long nose" needle nose pliers
• pry bar
• big ass hammer
• breaker bar
• Vice grip pliers
• MAP torch
• 32mm socket (big size needed for taking the axle nut off)

Check back with my post every now and then, because I may add things as I think of them.

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now if this was only posted in the right forum



hybrid/jdm FTW!!!

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good point ..... I'll move it now

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zep= greatness!!!!!
and John its a 32mm socket!!!

Yes... your right it's 32mm (I had a senior moment )

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