Another One Dead - Tuner-Junction

ltlblkcvc · #1 (**permalink**) April 8th, 2007, 04:58 PM

So this will be my 3rd engine that I've destroyed in my civic. 1st was at 67,000 miles, second was at about 107,000 miles, and now its my third engine at about 130,000 miles. well this time its another rod bearing I'm sure it was knocking pretty bad when I got it towed home. it was full of oil so I wasn't sure if the oil pump failed or if the rod bearings were so bad to cause a loss of oil pressure. either way I'm finally gonna build the engine and turbo it.I'll have the forged rods and pistons by next weekend. I pulled it out yesterday so I'll probaly start tearing it apart then as well. I'm shooting for about 300whp to start. I'll rebuild it and run it for a month then throw on the turbo.
the only thing I'm a little concerned about is the rods and pistons I got are used, so I'm stuck with the c/r 8.5:1. will the engine be able to run decent on that low of a c/r? I was also thinking about wether or not I should build the head now or later. I'm pretty sure I have to rebuild the head as it is but don't know quite yet. so if I have to get it rebuilt should I just have them mill the head to up the c/r? and should I just go ahead and get aftermarket valves and springs or just stock parts. so any ideas? build it now or wait for later. I think the head will work fine stock for 300whp

njn63 · #2 (**permalink**) April 8th, 2007, 06:00 PM

What kind of engine is going in? How high were you reving (on what engine) when you spun the bearing?

The c/r won't be a very big deal depending on what c/r your last motor was. Just up the boost a psi or two and it'll make the same power. Just be slightly slower off boost.

sloganish · #3 (**permalink**) April 8th, 2007, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by njn63

What kind of engine is going in? How high were you reving (on what engine) when you spun the bearing?

The c/r won't be a very big deal depending on what c/r your last motor was. Just up the boost a psi or two and it'll make the same power. Just be slightly slower off boost.

yeah the CR will make it suck dick for an NA car, but u can rock it, just watch your A/F, and 300whp is 100% achievable on what im guessing is a d series, and a stock d series head. check out tallkyle on honda-tech hes the dseries superstar, and on top of that if you do decide you want to run a built head, just get it out of the way now rather than waiting to do it later, itll be a bitch to pull everything apart down the road, and as for CR, 8:5 is actually (borat voice) very nice, that allows for some play in deciding how much boost you want to run

goodluck buddy boy

ltlblkcvc · #4 (**permalink**) April 8th, 2007, 06:51 PM

yea its a d16y8 in a 99 civic. I think I was up to 6000 rpm when it started to knock a little, barely noticable, I had been taken it very easy after that. well when picking up my buddy for work I turned it off with no noise when I turned it back on it was knocking hard which made me think the oil pump went so either way it has to be rebuilt. I'm really considering building the head now. it also has over 200,000 miles and was running really strong till that day.

njn63 · #5 (**permalink**) April 8th, 2007, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloganish

yeah the CR will make it suck dick for an NA car, but u can rock it, just watch your A/F, and 300whp is 100% achievable on what im guessing is a d series, and a stock d series head. check out tallkyle on honda-tech hes the dseries superstar, and on top of that if you do decide you want to run a built head, just get it out of the way now rather than waiting to do it later, itll be a bitch to pull everything apart down the road, and as for CR, 8:5 is actually (borat voice) very nice, that allows for some play in deciding how much boost you want to run

goodluck buddy boy

tallkyle has a b20/turbo now i think. Kid changes setups like i change my underwear.

With rods/pistons it's very possible to push it to 300hp.

d3f4ult · #6 (**permalink**) April 9th, 2007, 01:18 AM

Aight guys.. for the d series questions.. Any danger in trying to build a d16/zc to hang 9000+ rpm's? I mean, lighten the crank, knifeedge, billet rods, lightweight forged pistons, balance to within .5 gram.. I shouldn't have an issue should it?

Or is there an oiling problem?

Let me know please.

Dave

njn63 · #7 (**permalink**) April 9th, 2007, 05:33 AM

I'd say your biggest problem is going to be finding a cam that makes power up there. I've never really paid attention to the highest reving d-series i've seen but i know 8400ish have been done with aftermarket valvetrain.

d3f4ult · #8 (**permalink**) April 9th, 2007, 07:09 AM

Cam I have is good for at least 8600 rpm's, but supposedly only falls off about 5-10 hp for the next 1000 rpm's. I'll probably always shift at 8500 or so.. but if i NEED to rap it out further.. it would be nice to know I could.. ya know?

Dave

ltlblkcvc · #9 (**permalink**) April 10th, 2007, 08:41 PM

oiling I think would be an issue its bad enough they have oiling issues at high rpms but then your gonna go even higher then whats already bad enough. why would you need to go higher than the 8600rpms the cam has to offer? I was thinking about raising the limit to 8,000rpms. I was also wondering about the oil exit port on the pump would it benifit if you bore it out a little more?

d3f4ult · #10 (**permalink**) April 10th, 2007, 10:00 PM

Yeah.. I know D series have an inherant issue with slinging rods due to oil starvation. Generally on d15's #2 goes first... I'll have to have it all looked at shortly..

Dave

ltlblkcvc · #11 (**permalink**) April 12th, 2007, 08:23 PM

in all my y engines it was always the #3 to go

ltlblkcvc · #12 (**permalink**) April 30th, 2007, 07:47 PM

so just a little update I got the rods and pistons. when the guy said he burnt the top ring he really meant he melted the top ring. the rods look great. I ordered new srp pistons with the top coated with something, I don't remember what. and I ordered a block guard I figured it wouldn't hurt to have. I'm still debating wether or not to build the head or stay stock for now. I've already dropped about 850-900 on those 3 three items. I will go ahead and get a chipped ecu though. most likely one from phearable, the one for 255 that comes with the conversion harness.