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DIY rear disc conversion on an ek
Allrighty, pictures will be up as soon as i get my car back from my auto tech class, but i figured id righ tthis out while it was fresh in my mind...
Components needed:
Any rear disc assembly from an eg chassis, ek chassis, DC chassis will work
1. Brake Fluid
2. Rear trailing arm, caliper, camber rod, and front attachment lever from the donated car
3. rotors/pads
4.brake lines from a 99-00 civic si
5.proportioning valve from a 99-00 si
6. E Brake cables for your car
Tools needed: (air tools reccomended!)
1. 17mm socket
2.14mm socket
3. 10mm line wrench
4. 10 mm socket
5. needle nose pliers
6. PB lubricant
7.Flathead screwdriver
8. Phillips screwdriver
Allrighty...lets get rolling
Step 1.
Tools used:17mm socket, 14mm socket
support the car on jackstands (or a lift) in the rear. raise the car and begin unbolting the rear trailing arm assembly from the chassis.
*WARNING* Be careful to leave at least one bolt in until you have diconnected the rear brake lines and ebrake cable. otherwise your rear trailing arm will be hanging by the brake lines and cable and thats no bueno.
Step 2.
Tools used: 10 mm line wrench, PB lubricant
Using PB lubricant soak the brake line where the rubber attaches to the metal, also the location that you will remove the brake line, once the threaded portion of the line is coated in the lubricant, use the line wrench to loosen the brake line nut, it will take a few spins but will pull out of the rubber attaching hose. ONce this is done use a flathead screwdriver to pry the retaining clip from the brake line mount, this will allow the rubber hose from the brake line to drop away from the mount.
*WARNING*be careful not to strip the brake line attachment nut, if it wont loosen keep spraying PB grease and if necessery heat the nut.
Step 3.
Tools used:phillips head screwdriver, 10mm socket,14 mm socket, needle nose
It now time to remove the ebrake cable, go inside the car and remove the rear portion of the center consel with the phillips head, you will see the retainnig clip for each ebrake side. make sure the ebrake is down because it will release tention on the cables. Proceed to remove the cables from the inside og the connecting piece with a set of needle nose pliers. (this part can be a bitch get someone to help, those cables are made to not be slacky) Once they are removed from the inside of the car, get under the car and remove the brakets that hold the cables in place, once they are removed the cable will pull out of the car and hang freely. (in total there are 4 brackets under the car that hold up the ebrake cables, for the right side, you need to pull back a stock heatshield to more easil gain access to the bolt)
Step 4.
Tools used:Socket wrench
Now remove the last bolt holding up the rear control arm assembly, the whole assembly will fall out from the car and can be set aside, bye bye drum brakes.
Step 5
Tools used:14mm socket, 17mm socket
Now, take the new rear control arm assembly/caliper.rotor etc etc and fasten it to the chassis. 6 bolts in total hold the assembly to the rear of the car. 2 17mm and 4 14mm. once its all fastened up you can move on to the next step.
Step 6
Tools used: 10mm line wrench
Hook up the rear brake line and make fit snug, so it wont leak.
Step 7.
Tools used:14mm socket, needle nose pliers, you need a friends help also
Now its time to reattach the ebrake cables.Using the 14mm socket attach the mounting brakets in the same way as they were takin off from the car. and slide the ends of the cables up into the car from underneath, you wuill see a hole towards the middle of the car that leads inside. Have a friend with some needle nose pliers inside the car to grab the tips of the cables and pull them all the way through the car. this is tedious, not hard. Then pull the cables underneath the holding braket, re tighten the holding braket and attach the ends of the lines to the connecting pice at the base of the ebrake handle. If this soudns confusing it will all make sense as your do it. also it will come together once i add pics to this biznatch.
Step 8
REPEAT THE PROCESS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE CAR
Step 9
Tools used:10mm line wrench/open closed end
bleed the brakes startign with the caliper farthers from the master cylinder, youll need to pump the brake while bleeding at first because your lines will be 100% empty at first.
Step 10
put the wheels back on and go test the bitch. make sure to test it on a non busy road incase you fucked somethign up. and rememebr im not responsible if anythign happens to you
***WARNING*****it is highly recommended to use the proportioning valve from a 99-00si when doing this conversion, if you dont it could cause your brakes to lock up at weird times and for them to be exposed to uneven pressure. IE your proportioning valve stock is set up fopr rear drums and you now have rear discs.
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suck it
Last edited by sloganish; January 17th, 2007 at 09:07 PM..
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