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  #21 (permalink)   Check out my garage 
Old May 28th, 2008, 01:06 PM
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I think all this is getting put to use on my carbed small block chevy v8 in my Datsun, when I get around to putting the new motor in and converting to efi. Individual slide throttle bodies (I'm calling them ISTB's) would be interesting, and I'll probably end up with very short runners and velocity stacks. The 327 has no shortage of low-end power. Does anyone know a good formula to determine the air cfm each cylinder requires for a given motor?
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  #22 (permalink)   Check out my garage 
Old June 3rd, 2008, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drummingpariah View Post
I think all this is getting put to use on my carbed small block chevy v8 in my Datsun, when I get around to putting the new motor in and converting to efi. Individual slide throttle bodies (I'm calling them ISTB's) would be interesting, and I'll probably end up with very short runners and velocity stacks. The 327 has no shortage of low-end power. Does anyone know a good formula to determine the air cfm each cylinder requires for a given motor?
a lot of that will depend on the cam, and what cam you use will depend how high of lift your heads flow good at

most mild built 327's are fine with 650cfm carbs
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  #23 (permalink)   Check out my garage 
Old June 3rd, 2008, 05:32 PM
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I ran into some problems. The 283 is screwed up (not sure how or why until I tear it down), and I picked up a 327 for free this weekend. I started tearing down the 327, and found out why it was seized up. Bear with me here. There's no rust, even though it looks like there is. I actually think some dirt/mud/clay got into the motor somehow (maybe an animal living in the intake manifold while it sat?):


Only the rear cylinder was affected. The other side (driver's side) was much more interesting. Bear in mind, that cylinder was at the BOTTOM of its stroke, meaning that the valves were completely closed.


I let them soak in some wd-40 overnight, and will soak them in some diesel tonight for a half hour or so. Underneath the 'shells' (as I'm calling them), the cylinder walls are smooth as a baby's bottom (just like all the other cylinders) which means I definitely need a hone, possibly a bore.

I hope to have the block and heads in the machine shop by Friday, and hopefully be able to pick them up next week (might take a little longer, which I'm okay with, with the following done:

* honed/bored cylinder walls (as required)
* cleaned/polished crank
* slightly milled heads (shooting for 9.5:1 compression out of this)
* completely hot-tanked block and heads
* ported and polished valve openings (I'll probably do this myself, they don't need much work to be gasket matched).

All the main seals will be replaced in the process, and I'll probably repaint it after I get it back. I'm considering a new oil pump (so the oil pan doesn't stick down so far) and a new-style oil filter (the old style was both heavy and hard to change out). All told, not a bad deal for a free motor (as long as it's salvageable).
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Last edited by drummingpariah : June 3rd, 2008 at 05:38 PM. Reason: updated picture links
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