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March 16th, 2006, 01:17 AM
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Hells Wind Staff
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: manchester, N.H.
Posts: 343
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traction bars
has anyone ever heard of this company in canada. it's says on there web site that they have been around for 9 years and i noticed they have traction bars for the crx. the price for the traction bars is pretty inexpensive and look to be good qulity.
here check it out
http://www.etdracing.com/perfparts/perf14.html
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March 16th, 2006, 01:21 AM
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TJ Wanabe
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 86
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haven't heard of them but that does not really mean anything. I have a jimfab subframe and like it.
Barry H.
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88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R
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March 16th, 2006, 01:23 AM
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Hells Wind Staff
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: manchester, N.H.
Posts: 343
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here is another picture
i think i just might |
March 16th, 2006, 06:50 AM
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Supercharged Samurai
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 693
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I don't like the design of the arms. It doesn't allow for easy adjustments. Those require you to unbolt the arm to turn it. The full-race arms can be adjusted w/o unbolting anything. Otherwise, they don't look too bad.
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March 16th, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Hells Wind Staff
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 395
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 88 rex
I don't like the design of the arms. It doesn't allow for easy adjustments. Those require you to unbolt the arm to turn it. The full-race arms can be adjusted w/o unbolting anything. Otherwise, they don't look too bad.
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^^^ This is the only downside to these t.bars. I've heard of ETD before, good quality stuff from what was heard.
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March 16th, 2006, 12:55 PM
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Made Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 149
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Ive never heard of them before but like others have said no name companies have to get started somewhere. For all you know they could be the best. Except for the previous stated downside above. 
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91' CRX HF (stock motor): AEM Short Ram Intake, Buddy Club Spec II Exhaust, Neuspeed Short Shifter, Tokico Lowering Kit, NGK Wires, Wings West RS Body Kit, GS-R Rims, Toyo Proxe T1R's, Pioneer Head Unit, 2 Alpine 12" Type-E Subs, 4 Alpine Type-S 5 3/4" Door Speakers, Custom Enclosure.
RicerGSX on the other forums  |
March 16th, 2006, 12:59 PM
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Boostless peasant
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Christiana, PA
Posts: 762
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If I were to spend 300 dollars on that thing, what good would it do?(for those who have no clue what traction bars are)
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March 16th, 2006, 01:13 PM
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Boostless peasant
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Christiana, PA
Posts: 762
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by yellowrexsi
improves 60 ft times.
actually does alot for us because the factory bars have rubber on them and they are poor for drag racing.
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Can you say what 60 ft times you got last time at the track? I got a 2.3 the first time out. |
March 16th, 2006, 01:23 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,718
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usually a "good" fwd 60 ft. on street tires is 2.0-2.2 although there are many many factors. I don't think you really need them though unless you're having traction/wheelhop issues.
Oh, and for those that said there isn't much "design" to traction bars:
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March 16th, 2006, 01:26 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,718
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by yellowrexsi
2.8, was horrible. i am at the point where i can't put the power to the ground.
that was with dot aproved slicks. My tires actually shifted so far back they hit the fender well in the rear. Traction bars would cure 99% of my problem.
You probably won't need traction bars on your car yet.
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2.8.  I'm pretty sure i can walk faster than that. There is no way even with stock components the front end should move that much. Go over all your bolts and mounts and make sure something isn't loose/missing. |
March 16th, 2006, 01:31 PM
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Boostless peasant
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Christiana, PA
Posts: 762
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by yellowrexsi
2.8, was horrible. i am at the point where i can't put the power to the ground.
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Fuck 2.8, I thought you were talking about 1.8. There is something wrong. My car is almost stock (i/e, that's it). Shitty tires and I think I coasted across the 60 ft mark cause I missed 3rd BAD, mainly cause i didn't have a shift knob that day. |
March 16th, 2006, 01:38 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,718
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still, 2.8 is rediculous and i don't see how a wheel can move that far unless something is wrong.
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March 16th, 2006, 01:53 PM
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Made Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 149
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No offense but did you read his post. He is having trouble getting power to the ground. Sounds like traction issues to me. (well duh) Anyways how much hp/trq you got.
__________________
91' CRX HF (stock motor): AEM Short Ram Intake, Buddy Club Spec II Exhaust, Neuspeed Short Shifter, Tokico Lowering Kit, NGK Wires, Wings West RS Body Kit, GS-R Rims, Toyo Proxe T1R's, Pioneer Head Unit, 2 Alpine 12" Type-E Subs, 4 Alpine Type-S 5 3/4" Door Speakers, Custom Enclosure.
RicerGSX on the other forums |
March 16th, 2006, 02:14 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,718
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by EyelessCRX
No offense but did you read his post. He is having trouble getting power to the ground. Sounds like traction issues to me. (well duh) Anyways how much hp/trq you got.
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He also said his wheel shifted enough to contact his fender if you're refering to me. Unless you're running some huge tires that should never happen. |
March 16th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Hells Wind Staff
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 395
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by njn63
He also said his wheel shifted enough to contact his fender if you're refering to me. Unless you're running some huge tires that should never happen.
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Well he did say this:
Quote:
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Originally Posted by yellowrexsi
...that was with dot aproved slicks...
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Slicks + Bad bushings + Torque (SC) = Wheel shift -- I would guess.
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March 16th, 2006, 05:17 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,718
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i missed the part about street-slicks... still though, that's a long way to move. I've seen tires contact the fender on top and on the front of the fender but never the rear. I'm a firm believer though in not just throwing a band-aid on the situation. There is something not right in the suspension to have the tire move that far IMO.
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March 16th, 2006, 05:27 PM
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Supercharged Samurai
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 693
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For the most part, I wanted some extra room for a larger header in the future. The stock header fit with the swap, BUT I will not have that forever and I didnt' want to hack up my stock crossmember. Having caster adjustability is a plus too.
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March 17th, 2006, 12:40 AM
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Made Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 149
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Yeah sounds like there wasnt a real big gap for the tires to extend to anyways. But maybe for drag racing you might want to upgrade those bushing..could be just me.
__________________
91' CRX HF (stock motor): AEM Short Ram Intake, Buddy Club Spec II Exhaust, Neuspeed Short Shifter, Tokico Lowering Kit, NGK Wires, Wings West RS Body Kit, GS-R Rims, Toyo Proxe T1R's, Pioneer Head Unit, 2 Alpine 12" Type-E Subs, 4 Alpine Type-S 5 3/4" Door Speakers, Custom Enclosure.
RicerGSX on the other forums |
March 26th, 2006, 11:24 PM
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Supercharged Samurai
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 693
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The full-race has a different style radius rod arm as you can see in the pic. You can adjust them while they are on they car. Also they have radiator mounting tabs on top of the bar but they push the stock radiator slightly higher. I had to cut a small in the underside of my CF hood for the rad to fit. Also, they don't use that design clevice anymore to attach the radius rods to the LCA. That part has been much improved. The full-race bar is an excellent piece. I'm not a complete full-race supporter but they do have excellent crossmembers.
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March 26th, 2006, 11:31 PM
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Supercharged Samurai
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 693
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This should give you an idea on how the newer style clevice mounts up.
hole in the hood for the radiator
plenty of room
You can see the rad mounted on the bar |
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