Hey guys/gals,

I've looked around a little bit on the site, and let me tell you a little about what I'm looking for by answering the FAQ questions..

1. What will you be using the car for (daily driver, track, drag)?
2. What is your budget to work with?
3. What is your HP goal?
4. Do you want to go forced induction or all motor?

1. Daily, and track racing
2. 10k USD
3. 250-300hp or more if it can be done without becoming illegal on the streets
4. Not sure

I know what I want to do exterior wise, going to go with the BW 12pc wide body from GroundDesigns, with some Konig hotswap 17's if they fit. Interior, I have planned a rollcage, sparco seats with 4pt harness, gutting the extra weight to give her a diet, but possible fiberglass fabrications to make her look clean on the inside.

Now for the engine, I've been kinda toying with either a B16/B18 frankenstien or an H22 but since I know very little about honda engine's I don't know what really to go for to get the best bang for my buck. Plus, if I'm going to have to do alot of engine bay modifications, to do what I want, then I need the heads up. I would like to see 11's maybe 10's on the track without NOS if possible, I really don't care for NOS and don't want to use it. Would like to Turbo, but I'm only finding things from turbotecnics(sp)

So since you have my rough idea, and you know my budget... If you had 10 grand to dump into a fresh crx to get it where I want, what would you do?

Parts I am looking at for the car;
ACT Clutch kit
Brembo Brake's with drilled/slotted rotors
sway bars (front/rear)
Springs

i like you already, you asked and answered your own questions.

look for a guy on this site named jadkar, look at his build....in bang for buck and little modification...b18c-r

and its boostable
i dont have time to post more right now...but i think this will be a positive thread..

__________________

Originally posted by Car And Driver Magazine April 1988
"The CRX Si is a magic combination of desperate entities part front-wheel-drive economy sedan, part utility wagon, and part Ferrari."

I'm pretty drunk, but I'm going to try anyway. If I had 10k I'd do exactly what I'm doing right now: rwd and f13 (rx7 rotary) swap.

If I wasnt quite as intimately familiar with the CRX as I am, I'd probably do a brake swap(Integra or EX rotors+calipers, braided lines), a complete suspension overhaul, then probably a b16 (the rod/stroke ratio on the b16 is just beautiful), and some nice 9" wide wheels and tires.
All on an HF shell, reinforced with a minimalistic roll cage.

That's my suggestion.

BUT... $10k barely covers gas nowadays, so I'd probably just keep the HF stock and do something like what njn did with his "different kind of crx project".

__________________
Driven Daily. Visit. Read. Comment. Enjoy.

I looked around a bit and used a lot of search engines to find some good information on the CRX and what I can stuff under the hood. I'm looking at a B18c5 and the B16B, I also discovered though not for sure if it's true or not, that the H22 will require some frame work. With the B18c5 being a USDM motor, I am also wondering if it will be more available than a JDM, and more information being able to be picked up on it, in comparison to a JDM that you have an estimated 10k-50k miles on the engine.

Thoughts?

The h22 isn't an entirely uncommon swap, but it's far from an effective use of the CRX chassis. The b18c5 (ITR = Integra Type R) is a good idea, as is the b18c1 (Integra GSR). They're reasonably inexpensive, have great aftermarket, and put out more torque than the b16 at the cost of high-revving scream.

However, the b16 has the advantage of a near-perfect rod-stroke ratio, meaning it's obscenely efficient at what it does (revving high and peaky power). You can easily get a USDM b16a2, but you'll either need to convert your clutch to hydraulic or use a cable transmission(the b16a1 was only offered in Japan, after that Honda went Hydro). The JDM b16 is slightly higher compression, but a head machining will match you up (or you could force induction into the USDM b16).

Personally, my suggestion would be:

1. suspension (adjustable in as many ways as you can finagle)
2. intake (ITBs?)
3. header (4/2/1 is my preference)
4. exhaust (2.25-2.75", depending on your application)
5. b16
6. valvetrain rebuild
7. cams
8. stainless brake lines
9. wide, sticky tires
10. months of suspension tuning
11. comfy steering wheel, seats, and shifter

That'll put you pretty darn close to the $10k upper budget limit. The LEAST important part of the build is the engine. The difference between 109hp(d16a6) and 160hp(b16a2) isn't as crazy as you think. The difference between 'rides nice' and 'holy shit, you can turn THAT hard?' is. Just my $0.02, make sure whatever you do you take lots of pictures.

__________________
Driven Daily. Visit. Read. Comment. Enjoy.

Alright, these are the parts I'm looking at for the CRX. Once, I get the parts ordered, which if no one on here says something along the lines of OMG don't buy that part, you'll waste your cash... I will be purchasing within 2 weeks.

Suspension;
Cusco Front Lower arm bar
Greddy Front Grex strut tower bars
Maxspeed Coilover (Adjustable)
Tokico Illumina Gas shocks front and rear (Adjustable)

Rims I'm looking at
http://www.tiredealersites.com/konig...ails&wid=12064

though I'm still contemplating going to a 16/17"

I've never tracked my car.. so i could be way off here, but most of the suspension research I've done says to stick with the OEM front lower sway bar. Aftermarket ones tend to promote lots of understeer. The rear lower sway bar however should be upgraded because you want the car to rotate to a certain extent. Illuminas are nice shocks though from what i've experienced. njn63 can vouch for them.
Oh, and 15" wheels FTW, IMO

x2 on the 15's...nothing bigger then 16's

__________________

Originally posted by Car And Driver Magazine April 1988
"The CRX Si is a magic combination of desperate entities part front-wheel-drive economy sedan, part utility wagon, and part Ferrari."

I wouldnt go with those maxspeed coilovers...best bet for cheap and pretty good would be get koni yellows and ground control coilovers..If not get full coilovers like progess, tein(ss or better dont get basic), KW, etc.

that fron lower arm bar isnt needed. I never seen anyone use one of those also.

__________________
02 psm wrx gt3076r
89 crx HF..SOLD!!!

I'll second the motion for a koni yellow / ground control setup. Good stuff.

From my point of view, I would save bucks on the bodykit and 17' wheels to build up a descent chassis.

-Bilstein B8 with H&R springs
-new bushings all around
-ITR full brake conversion (not only calipers and rotors) with stainless brakes lines
-b16 swap with hot cams and upgraded valvetrain
-stock DC2 airbox (works pretty well on a B16)
-a good exhaust header & catback
-a set of light 15' with semi-slicks (i.e. Toyo R888)

That would be a good beginning for 10K