Bench bleeding your new Master Cylinder
I don't have a camera right now, so until I can update this with pictures, I'll just try to be very descriptive.
So you have your new master cylinder and you want to make sure to get the best pedal feel and response possible out of it. The first thing you need to do is ensure that the m/c came with all of the correct hardware.
You should have:
Two plastic threaded nipples
Two rubber lines
POSSIBLY one line holder(you will know it if you have it)
I always make sure to have a decent rubber band handy as well.
Instructions are based around you having a vise.
Place the m/c in the vise with the front angled down slightly. This means the bracket end needs to be angled up.
Install the two threaded plastic nipples into the m/c. This is going to piss you off to no end due to the fact that these things NEVER.. EVER thread properly. Don't worry, just get them in and sealed. Plug the two rubber lines onto them and run them up to the reservoir. Use the rubber band to hold them to the reservior making sure that they reach at least 3/4 of the way back down into it.
fill the reservior roughly to the -MAX- line making sure that the rubber lines are properly submerged(we are trying to get all of the air out of the m/c).
Using a large handled screwdriver(philips preferable) or a good length 3/8" extension and slowly press the piston to the bottom(inside the bracket end you will see the back of the piston, held in with a snap ring).
You should see massive air bubbles being forced into the reservior and through the lines. Just continue slowly bleeding until all the large bubbles are out of the lines, and you have a good consistant feel as you press in the piston.
Use your judgement, it's your brakes, and your life, so be anal and be sure.
Remove your old m/c from the car. It is preferable to use a 10 mm line wrench to get the hydraulic lines loose from the m/c(try not to bend them any more than you have to for removal clearance). A 12" 3/8" extension, swivel socket, and a 12mm will remove the m/c from the booster. Slide the m/c straight out and pull it up and out of the car. Double check and make sure the old rear gasket was not left behind in the brake booster. Look at the new m/c to get an idea of what you are looking for.
Leaving everything attached to your new m/c(bleeder nipples, rubber lines and band), carefully install the m/c on the studs and replace the 2 12mm nuts and lock washers. Remove the rubber lines from the reservior, leave them banded, just pull them out of the fluid and replace the reservior cap. Remove the rear nipple and install the hydraulic line first, then the front. After this, you shouldn't need to bleed your entire brake system, but if the pedal still feels a bit spongy, give it a go, there may be a little air trapped deeper in the lines, or caught in the lines near the m/c.
I'll try to get pictures up ASAP to help with the process. Sorry I don't have any currently, just never thought to save some for a future writeup.
=)
Dave - aka d3f4ult
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 New parts list coming soon
Last edited by d3f4ult; December 2nd, 2007 at 03:12 AM..
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