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October 9th, 2007, 07:18 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Brakes to the floor after sitting
Brake question. During the hot summer months here in FL I dont drive the car very much, well its started cooling down and last weekend I decided to take it out for a spin. Now it had been sitting for a month or two in a garage since Id last driven it. The battery was dead...so I jumped it and it started right up. After it warmed up I went to drive it, I put my foot on the brake pedal and it went right to the floor with almost no resistance. So I pumped it a few times, it didnt really seem like it made a difference but it felt like it was grabbing near the floor. I figured the calipers might've been stuck from not being driven, so I took it around the block. It stops, you have to push the pedal to almost the floor but it gets stiff and slows the car, but I dont remember it being like that(its possible though, i guess)Any ideas as to what would change?
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B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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October 9th, 2007, 08:28 AM
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CRXus Maximus Arelues
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North West NJ
Posts: 2,111
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If you don't see fluid on the floor then 98% sure your MS is dead. Try bleeding the system to see if air got in if not replace the MS.
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October 9th, 2007, 10:17 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gs-R-less in New York.
Posts: 1,081
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either the ms is gone like john said or you had a slow leak in the lines before you garaged it and you never noticed it. If one of your calipers were stuck itwould feel like you were breaking slightly and youde feel it. Try adding brake fluid first before you start swapping out parts. DOT 3.
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October 10th, 2007, 06:17 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Now wouldnt a dead MS have no stopping power at all? The fluid resovoir is full, but I will try bleeding them at all four corners, farthest to the closest right? It was time to change the brake fluid anyway, and some stainless lines would be a good idea to replace the old worn rubber ones. Wheres the best place the get them?
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B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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October 10th, 2007, 06:23 PM
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CRXus Maximus Arelues
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North West NJ
Posts: 2,111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g2nick
Now wouldnt a dead MS have no stopping power at all?
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No, they can slowly start to fail
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October 15th, 2007, 10:24 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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You know.. when you replace that m/c.... a 95 civic EX uses a 15/16" m/c in case you still have the small one.  Lots more braking force with lots less braking effort  and it all bolts right up
Dave
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October 15th, 2007, 10:57 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Is it only the '95 or will all the 92-95 styles work?
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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October 16th, 2007, 01:19 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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They should all work, but the 95 one is about.. $24 and I know it's a 15/16's. Just ask them for any of them.. tell them you want to look at it, and look for the 15/16 mark on it normally near the reservoir. If you truly want a NASTY response pedal.. get a teggy booster(DA 90-93) and a type R m/c. It's a 1", you will have to change your rear line fitting to a slightly larger one.. but that pedal requires your big toe to stop the car HARD  I love my brakes  
Dave
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 New parts list coming soon
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October 16th, 2007, 09:09 AM
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CRXus Maximus Arelues
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North West NJ
Posts: 2,111
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I used the 1989 Civic 4 dr EX. That's a 15/16 master and it's from an EF so you will have ZERO problems with brake line fitment. Everything bolts right up. Now as far as the booster that really depends on what you like in your pedal feel. The stock CRX one that I use gives you a nice firm pedal feel, not over sensitive. If you move to a Teggy booster it's going to give you more "assist" so the pedal will be super responsive. To me on a road course it's too much as our cars don't have ABS and I don't want to be constantly locking up my brakes. I'm heavy on my pedal as it is and the CRX booster is perfect for me.
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October 16th, 2007, 11:47 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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Jad jad jad... but if you got the teggy booster, and learned the pedal.. you could rock out with your cock out  lol.
Nick, Jad and I both like to STOP. We have different pedal tastes, but losing speed quickly is a major thing for both of us. Pick and choose and figure out what pedal feel you are looking for and go with it. We have presented you with a few different choices anyway right?
Dave
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October 17th, 2007, 07:22 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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The teggy booster is out, I dont want an ant to crawl on my brake pedal and lock 'em up. But I think Im confused, the M/C and brake booster are those two different things? Or is that two parts to the whole assembly?
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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October 17th, 2007, 10:49 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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booster just handles your vacuum assist. Is the black canister on the firewall. you can easily(2 12mm nuts) remove the m/c from the equation(god that spelling looks way off) it isn't quite and ant crawling across the pedal touchy.. but it is definately a difference. but yeah.. go with a 89 Civic 4 dr EX m/c, like jad 
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November 27th, 2007, 07:41 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Well, now its crunch time. I have an appointment to get the car tuned(finially)....December 22nd 11am! Sooo I need to get the brakes fixed. The m/c that is on the car now is a 7/8, the civic one is a 15/16 which has a greater capacity and is larger but will still bolt up and fit the same? And on the '89 civic 4door ex(does engine trim matter and does 4wd matter)? Or as long as it says its a 15/16 it will work?
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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December 1st, 2007, 02:09 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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15/16" is that you are looking for. Bigger piston = More fluid per same amount of travel = better brake response/more positive feel in the pedal. Go get that thing man.. it's like.. $28 at the parts store  BENCH BLEED IT FIRST!!!
Dave
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 New parts list coming soon
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December 1st, 2007, 08:12 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Bench Bleed it?? Anyone know of a good write up on how to do that?
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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December 2nd, 2007, 03:14 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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Bench bleeding your new Master Cylinder
I don't have any pictures, but I figured anyone that didn't know could use a writeup.  Let me know if you need any more information.
Dave
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December 8th, 2007, 12:45 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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OK, now what? I just got back from the parts store. according to their comupters their is NO '89 civic EX(only dx, lx, si, if I remember correctly)and none of those trim levels use a 15/16 they use a 13/16. The only vehicle I can see that uses one is a 92-95 civic EX with ABS. I just dont know if that will fit, if abs changes anything about it or what.
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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December 8th, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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As I said =P
95 Civic EX m/c will work. the ABS is handled AFTER the m/c in the abs module/pump/reservoir, so you should be fine. It should have the same bolt pattern, and be 15/16th
Have fun man
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December 8th, 2007, 02:19 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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OK you win, lol. I found what I was looking for. A '90 civic EX part # 112517(from either napaonline.com or advanceautoparts.com(both local stores here) The main problem was none of them had them in stock to verify the bore size, and the websites only listed ones with 7/8, 13/16 etc...But I finally found on napas website the-Bore Size:0.93750, lol which when you convert it comes out to 15/16. Except its $52.96 after the core not $28! haha, but thanks for putting up with me. But hey good info for anyone else doing this.
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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December 9th, 2007, 12:57 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austell, Ga
Posts: 244
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dude.. oreilly's.. 95 ex $24 after core.. thats my price at least..
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