Koni Shocks - Tuner-Junction

Juicy19 · #1 (**permalink**) January 22nd, 2007, 10:34 AM

I came across a couple questions while working on installing my Koni Shocks. I hope some one here that has installed them can help me out.

These questions came up while working on the front suspension. I haven't gotten to the rear yet, I needed to order new bump stops...

1) What do you do with the brake line holders? Will they fit over the body of the Koni shock after they're pried off the stockers? If that doesn't work, what should i do with the brake lines?

2) Did you guys reuse the dust covers? Did you just widen the hole on top since it won't fit over the shaft?

TIA for any help!

UnFukWitAble · #2 (**permalink**) January 22nd, 2007, 12:20 PM

this may not be overly helpful ,but if all else fails, Duct Tape and/or Tie wraps.

triniskill · #3 (**permalink**) January 22nd, 2007, 02:20 PM

send a PM to 88 rex..he has koni yellows on his crx..

88 rex · #4 (**permalink**) January 22nd, 2007, 10:27 PM

1) I reused my brake line holders. It was a tight fit, but I got it to fit properly. Just don't do what I did and put the left bracket on the right side and the right bracket on the left side

I was still able to use the brackets but my lack of attention to detail caused me to get creative with zip ties.

2) I reused my dust covers by opening up the hole. Most people don't use them. I have had no ill effects from using them. I don't think you'll have too much to worry about if you don't use them.

Let me know if you have any more questions

Juicy19 · #5 (**permalink**) January 23rd, 2007, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88 rex

1) I reused my brake line holders. It was a tight fit, but I got it to fit properly. Just don't do what I did and put the left bracket on the right side and the right bracket on the left side

I was still able to use the brackets but my lack of attention to detail caused me to get creative with zip ties.

2) I reused my dust covers by opening up the hole. Most people don't use them. I have had no ill effects from using them. I don't think you'll have too much to worry about if you don't use them.

Let me know if you have any more questions

I think I'm going to reuse the dust covers. I already spent the time to clean all the rust off of them and respray em. They look nice now!

Can you explain to me the process you went through with the brake line holders? Getting them off the old struts and then on the new ones? Do they scratch up the yellow paint?

Is there anything I need to look out for when I start working on the rears? I'll get to that once my new bump stops arrive.

Thanks for your knowledge.

88 rex · #6 (**permalink**) January 23rd, 2007, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juicy19

I think I'm going to reuse the dust covers. I already spent the time to clean all the rust off of them and respray em. They look nice now!

Can you explain to me the process you went through with the brake line holders? Getting them off the old struts and then on the new ones? Do they scratch up the yellow paint?

Is there anything I need to look out for when I start working on the rears? I'll get to that once my new bump stops arrive.

Thanks for your knowledge.

To get them off the old ones I had to whack them with a hammer. They look like they are welded to the shock body, but they really aren't. It will take some good solid whacks to get them loose. To put them on the yellows they are a tight fit because of the paint (and maybe the sticker), but they will somewhat scratch the paint. I put the bracket on and then the fork. I remember pounding the fork on the ground with the shock to make sure everything was snug and lined up properly.

The rears are pretty straight forward. Just lining up the shock with the bolt holes in the LCA can be a bit tricky. I used a jack and a piece of wood to help push the shock up a little. It's straightforward BUT can get a little tricky.

Good luck!

Juicy19 · #7 (**permalink**) February 5th, 2007, 11:41 AM

On the rears, after taking out the bolt that hold the shock to the arm, I can't get the shock out because the arm doesn't drop down far enough to pull the shock out of the tower in the hatch. I've even jumped on the rotor to try and get more clearance. Then I tried to pull the bolt closer to the rotor to get the arm to drop more freely. I've cracked 2 sockets and the bolt hasn't budged. What are my options?

Juicy19 · #8 (**permalink**) February 8th, 2007, 09:51 AM

Can anyone give me some assistance in getting the shock tower out of the car? The arm doesn't drop far enough down to give me the clearance to get the top of the shock out.

88 rex · #9 (**permalink**) February 8th, 2007, 09:11 PM

Just one stupid question, did you remove the nuts on the top of the shock tower?

To get some more room you could remove the bolt that holds the LCA to the trailing arm, or maybe even the bolt that holds the LCA to the body. OR you could remove both and remove the LCA altogether.

OR, you could just cut the shock in half if you don't plan on reusing the shocks and remove it that way

Destruction is more fun, I vote for this method.

Juicy19 · #10 (**permalink**) February 9th, 2007, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88 rex

Just one stupid question, did you remove the nuts on the top of the shock tower?

To get some more room you could remove the bolt that holds the LCA to the trailing arm, or maybe even the bolt that holds the LCA to the body. OR you could remove both and remove the LCA altogether.

OR, you could just cut the shock in half if you don't plan on reusing the shocks and remove it that way

Destruction is more fun, I vote for this method.

Both of the nuts have been removed

The problem is the one that holds the top hat on. The entire assembly doesn't drop down far enough to come out of the hole in the body.

I broke the 2 sockets trying to remove the bolt from the trailing arm, it must be seized up pretty good. I guess I'll try the bolt that's holding the LCA to the body.

charliemopps24 · #11 (**permalink**) February 9th, 2007, 04:17 PM

I'm 3/4 done my full coilover install too. The rears are giving me a real hard time. All i can do is soak every bolt with wd40 and if that doesn't work, the cutting torch comes out.

charliemopps24 · #12 (**permalink**) February 9th, 2007, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juicy19

Can anyone give me some assistance in getting the shock tower out of the car? The arm doesn't drop far enough down to give me the clearance to get the top of the shock out.

My friends told me to stand on the brake hub and have somebody yank it out of the hole. It still didn't come down far enough. Use the car's scisor jack and a few short pieces of 2x4. Just take your time and make sure the jack is stable all the time that your cranking.

Juicy19 · #13 (**permalink**) February 9th, 2007, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliemopps24

My friends told me to stand on the brake hub and have somebody yank it out of the hole. It still didn't come down far enough. Use the car's scisor jack and a few short pieces of 2x4. Just take your time and make sure the jack is stable all the time that your cranking.

I tried jumping on the rotor assembly already too. No luck there. Maybe I'll try someone that weighs a little more...

charliemopps24 · #14 (**permalink**) February 10th, 2007, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juicy19

I tried jumping on the rotor assembly already too. No luck there. Maybe I'll try someone that weighs a little more...

Seriously, the stock jack does wonders.

88 rex · #15 (**permalink**) February 10th, 2007, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliemopps24

Seriously, the stock jack does wonders.

I've used it for removing transmissions

charliemopps24 · #16 (**permalink**) February 10th, 2007, 11:17 AM

Hell, i used it along with a 3 foot piece of 2x4 to cover the distance inside the car to push my frame back into shape after i crashed my rex.

That panel along with the door were touching the driver's seat.

Juicy19 · #17 (**permalink**) February 12th, 2007, 10:17 AM

I got the install done this weekend! If you're still struggling with the same clearance issues I was, just disconnect the upper arm and the rotor/hub assembly will drop down and give you plenty of room.