Brakes dont work? - Page 2 - Tuner-Junction

88 rex · #21 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2007, 05:08 PM

Get'em working yet?

ozrednsx · #22 (**permalink**) January 4th, 2007, 04:12 AM

i got it running and working

but it isnt working properly so its back in the garage but this time its not on jacks and can finally move

it sure did feel good to drive though its been like a month

well i ran into a few problems as soon as i pulled out of the driveway. what happened was that there has been a lot of people saying that if you use SIr knuckles youll need the jdm sir tie rods or else it will cause some sort of alignment problem. Well i found some sir tie rods which were better condition than my current ones hahah. and it was the last thing i installed and it just totally screwed up my alignment so i used my stock tie rods and it ran straight compared to jerking to the right or the left with the SIr ones...ill just let the pro's do the alignment stuff

and now when i took it on a very cautious and safe test drive it does stop but its worse than my stock setup. here are the symptoms when the car is off after one pump of the pedal it is rock solid. when i turn on the car it still stays firm and drops a little bit. but after driving it goes to the floor and takes like 2-3 pumps to get it to stop on a dime. and damn it sure does grab. haha well anyways thats totally not safe but it was like 1am and no one was out driving.

i believe i need to bleed it more. I think?

any suggestions?

RoyMan · #23 (**permalink**) January 4th, 2007, 09:09 AM

i know you replaced the MC already and such....but what you described there sounds like what happened to me before i replaced my stock MC. i put in the bigger prelude one (15/16 i believe?) and that fixed my prob...

thats a cool setup btw, i need to to somethin like that pretty soon actually cause i still think my braking is bad...i have hawk pads and powerslot rotors.

ozrednsx · #24 (**permalink**) January 4th, 2007, 06:50 PM

i already swaped out a larger MC a 15/16 from a civic ex to fit the stock brake booster

88 rex · #25 (**permalink**) January 5th, 2007, 05:10 PM

And you don't have any leaks, right?

ozrednsx · #26 (**permalink**) January 5th, 2007, 07:41 PM

no leaks...

i actually took to a shop that was recommended by a honda dealership over here because they wouldnt touch the car.

the mechanic who worked there has been working on hondas and actually has a civic with a ITR 5 lug swap.

they tried a couple things...they re routed my SS lines so there would be no kinks...

and then they vacuum bled it. well i pretty much paid $60 and the results were the same thing.

He is now suggesting that i go with a 1 inch MC with an integra BB which makes no sense...

i went to another guy i knew and he told me that my MC was fine and that i should adjust my brake pedal and adjust the part the connects from the booster to the pedal. Im going to actually try that and see what happens.

88 rex · #27 (**permalink**) January 5th, 2007, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozrednsx

no leaks...

i actually took to a shop that was recommended by a honda dealership over here because they wouldnt touch the car.

the mechanic who worked there has been working on hondas and actually has a civic with a ITR 5 lug swap.

they tried a couple things...they re routed my SS lines so there would be no kinks...

and then they vacuum bled it. well i pretty much paid $60 and the results were the same thing.

He is now suggesting that i go with a 1 inch MC with an integra BB which makes no sense...

i went to another guy i knew and he told me that my MC was fine and that i should adjust my brake pedal and adjust the part the connects from the booster to the pedal. Im going to actually try that and see what happens.

Going to a 1 inch shouldn't really change anything, UNLESS your MC is bad. I also don't think adjusting the pedals is the solution, nor do I know how to adjust the pedal height. Sounds like a band aid fix and not an actual fix. Is everything ok with your rears?

I have drums back there, unlike you, BUT once I adjusted the drums to their proper place the pedal returned to stock.

How does your pressure feel if you pull the ebrake up a notch or two?

ozrednsx · #28 (**permalink**) January 5th, 2007, 09:07 PM

yea thats what i was thinking too...it wouldnt matter if i upgraded to a 1inch because no matter what MC im running i should get a firm pedal and it should stay that way.

umm as for the rears they work and ive never actually tried comparing braking when the ebrake was up...ebrake doesnt work too well because the caliper eliminates/mounts the ebrake bracket differently so i cannot use it

i bought brand new BB vacuum hoses and check valve ($70

) but havent put that on yet because i doubt its that

I was also told that since i had brand new rotors pad it should take a while before i actually get real stopping power...which i dont believe because i should be braking no matter what.

maybe bad calipers?????????

ozrednsx · #29 (**permalink**) January 5th, 2007, 09:09 PM

more bleeding?

forgot to mention before the swap was done the car had no brakes or lines and all the brake fluid was pumped out.

ARKANSASCRX · #30 (**permalink**) January 17th, 2007, 01:40 PM

The first "new" MC I had installed was bad. The shop had to put in a second to get everything to work.

Alot of the "new" MCs are really just reconditioned ones.

ozrednsx · #31 (**permalink**) January 17th, 2007, 02:26 PM

well i dont think my MC was bad

I found out one of the pistons on the driver side caliper was stuck...so im in the process of rebuilding my brakes

cleaning it up really well...getting them powdercoated and then greasing it up nicely
new seals/boots

ozrednsx · #32 (**permalink**) January 27th, 2007, 03:57 AM

well good news to those who were following along...

first of all it took forever to order the new seals and boots cause the rebuild kit was discontinued and the older calipers have one larger piston (36mm compared to 34mm) so it is harder to find...

but luckily i found someone who was selling a rebuild kit online!

powercoating turned out great...i think its much better than actual brush on kits...trust me when brake fluid gets on it nothing happens...ive accidently dropped a caliper while installing it

and not a scratch.

well after a full caliper rebuild i was excited to slap them on and start bleeding with hopes problems would be solved. But i guess i was being too wishful and i was back to sqaure one where i would loose pressure and it would take a good pump or two to get it nice and firm. So i had my brother help me out and had him press the brakes and i tried to look at everything to see what was wrong. Then i finally noticed this tiny noise that one rear brake was making and it sound mushy so i placed my ear against the caliper and it was AIR! well i took a closer look at the actual caliper and compared the NSX caliper to the stock ITR caliper and noticed something HUGE! well first of all i double checked if the calipers were on the right side and they were, but what had happened was that the bleeder screw was on the bottom side. Then i knew that was the problem so i took my tools and switched up the calipers and started bleeding again.

and now finally my brakes are working how theyre suppose to! its nice and firm and sits high.

ill get some pictures for you guys...im just waiting for my wheels to come back from powder coating

g2nick · #33 (**permalink**) January 27th, 2007, 09:05 AM

Man, I love a good victory. Exspecially after something that has been giving you troulbe for sooooo long, the most satisfying part is actually figuring it out for your self, good job man, get some pics up.

jadkar · #34 (**permalink**) January 27th, 2007, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozrednsx

well good news to those who were following along...

first of all it took forever to order the new seals and boots cause the rebuild kit was discontinued and the older calipers have one larger piston (36mm compared to 34mm) so it is harder to find...

but luckily i found someone who was selling a rebuild kit online!

powercoating turned out great...i think its much better than actual brush on kits...trust me when brake fluid gets on it nothing happens...ive accidently dropped a caliper while installing it

and not a scratch.

well after a full caliper rebuild i was excited to slap them on and start bleeding with hopes problems would be solved. But i guess i was being too wishful and i was back to sqaure one where i would loose pressure and it would take a good pump or two to get it nice and firm. So i had my brother help me out and had him press the brakes and i tried to look at everything to see what was wrong. Then i finally noticed this tiny noise that one rear brake was making and it sound mushy so i placed my ear against the caliper and it was AIR! well i took a closer look at the actual caliper and compared the NSX caliper to the stock ITR caliper and noticed something HUGE! well first of all i double checked if the calipers were on the right side and they were, but what had happened was that the bleeder screw was on the bottom side. Then i knew that was the problem so i took my tools and switched up the calipers and started bleeding again.

and now finally my brakes are working how theyre suppose to! its nice and firm and sits high.

ill get some pictures for you guys...im just waiting for my wheels to come back from powder coating

Great work!! You know someone here actually suggested you make sure your bleeder was on the top and not the bottom. I can't believe that's actually what it was. Now let's see some photos of them installed.

ozrednsx · #35 (**permalink**) January 27th, 2007, 02:26 PM

haha IKNOW!!!

but for the rears the bleeder screw was in the middle so it had me thinking that was the top of the caliper...and since i never done a rear brake swap ive never really pictured it until i brought a stock caliper that i had laying around and compared it.

Now my problem is i have to find a way to get my ebrake to work since the mechanism is located on the bottom hahah

btw im gonna go with the progress coilovers! theyre located like 20 mins away.

ill get those pictures up but my girlfriend just called me

jon ROCKS!!!! · #36 (**permalink**) January 28th, 2007, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jadkar

Great work!! You know someone here actually suggested you make sure your bleeder was on the top and not the bottom. I can't believe that's actually what it was. Now let's see some photos of them installed.

i thank you

ozrednsx · #37 (**permalink**) January 29th, 2007, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jon ROCKS!!!!

i thank you

hahah stupid me

thank you!

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