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December 7th, 2006, 07:13 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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A no start gremlin
After running GREAT for about 2 weeks, she decided that she doesnt want to start anymore. Now for the story. Ever since I went to obd1 I was getting a code 9 for the cyp sensor in the distributor. Im skeptical that the distributor is bad because its BRAND new....but not an oem honda. So the other day I decided to check the wiring and make sure all my connections were tight, etc... I also took the distributor off and made sure I had it on the right way, i flipped the rotor 180degrees and tried it like that, no good, car wouldnt even start. So I flip it back around put it back on, scratch my head and try to start it again. nothing. Keep in mind prior to me doing any of this it would start and run great. So now Im really confused, I changed nothing, didnt move any pins on the plugs, and it wont start. I know its getting fuel the plugs are wet when I take them out. I removed all the plugs and laid them all out to see if they were firing and make sure the firing order was correct. They all fire, the only thing Im not sure about is to me it seems like the spark is slow.... And once they are in the block the fuel is deffinitly not igniting because they are wet when I take them out. Does anyone have any clue, I really am lost, and it sucks cause theres a punk in an sti around here that wants to race who was quoted as saying "its just a crx it cant be that fast" lol any help is great!
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B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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December 7th, 2006, 07:36 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 203
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I bet you jumped time. Your dizzy is directional and can't go in 180 degrees out.
Last time I saw something like that happen, it jammed the cam and jumped time.
Can you get a compression check done??
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ezeedee
i wish my grandma would go to sleep so i could rub one off on her 
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December 7th, 2006, 12:04 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gs-R-less in New York.
Posts: 1,081
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check the starter and its quite possible you flooded the engine. does the car crank but not turn?? if so again the engine could be flooded. IF it cranks but wont turn over hold the throttle full open and start it. it happened to me just like that and i floored it then started it and i was able to get it ignited and i burned all the excess gas out.
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December 7th, 2006, 09:54 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowrexsi
I bet you jumped time. Your dizzy is directional and can't go in 180 degrees out.
Last time I saw something like that happen, it jammed the cam and jumped time.
Can you get a compression check done??
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How would it have jumped time? do you mean it jumped a tooth on the timing belt? A friend said to do a compression check also, I dont see how it could be losing compression, its a completly rebuilt block, and it didnt have a problem starting until I messed with the distributor, infact this thing started amazingly, first shot everytime no hesitation.
I tried clearing the cylinders, I left the plugs out over night to dry them out, and have tried it with half-full throttle and nothing, no explosion.... I ordered a new distributor today, hopefully that is the problem, if not then im stumped.
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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December 8th, 2006, 02:40 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 203
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The dizzy is directional. It has a slanted end that fits into the cam. If you had it out 180, and tightened the bolts down it would lodge it until the cam could spin, or stay in place, to where it would line up again.
Basically it will slip the timing belt
If you do a compression check and has nothing, pull the valve cover and look at the cams, make sure they are in the correct time
Trust me, I saw this happen first hand. We ran through everything in the entire car from, spark, to fuel, even wiring.
It was just dumb luck that it happens
__________________
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ezeedee
i wish my grandma would go to sleep so i could rub one off on her 
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December 11th, 2006, 08:25 PM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 203
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Well, thats what I get for doubting the forum guys. Well the problem was two fold. First, cam timing was WAAAAAY off, like 4 or 5 teeth off on the belt. I was so shocked, I could not believe it. So we fixed that, but still no luck, same thing, it sounded better but no spark. So the new distributor got here today, we put it on, and woolla, cranked up the first time ran like a champ. But Im still getting a code 9, anyone have any idea why? And help on that would be great. thanks.
__________________
B18 Block with a B16 Head with a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 68mm throttle body
Eagle Rods with CP 9:1 pistons Fueled by Precision 1000cc Injectors and a Hondata s200
Full-Race Manifold attached to a t3/60-1 Turbo
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT 12lb flywheel
Quaife LSD spinning some 205/60/14 BF Drag Radials Held down by a Full-Race Traction Bar
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