Rod bearing or some other internal part. It happened coming downhill and off camber into the hairpin at Barber Motorsports Park last sunday. I was working over some car (I think it was a 996 Porsche) and had the drop on it coming out of the hairpin when the motor kind of fell on its face. hmmmm, not good. I probably should have turned it off then and parked it off track and had a flat tow but I didn't. I limped it low rpms to the paddock. Somethings is "loose" in there. Not good. I was just talking about refreshening the motor but my winter project is a lot bigger now. Before that it was kicking some high dollar ass though.

I saw an article in GRM last month about a B20 bottom end mated to a B18c5. With mild mods it made more torque than my car with more mods. Hmmm. I was wondering if it was an option. But does it have the oil squirters and all the good stuff to make it survive as a track engine which of course leads a rougher life than a street car. The only street it sees is going to the track. I know the B20 makes more torque and I would love that. One of my track buddies has a Porsche 944 but he has put the 3.0 liter four banger in his track car. I am envious of his 200+lb.ft. of torque.

What are the issues involved? Where do I find a short block? Should I do it or not? How cheap are they? Or I just go back and do a B18c again. I have to get into the motor and see what is hurt first but I am thinking out loud here.

Barry H.

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88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R

Short blocks can be found everywher, from a junkyard to hmotorsonline, ideally its the cheapest 2.0l b series available, people do crvtec builds all the time, the biggest issue ive seen with them is oil starvation/burning oil. i believe golden eagle makes a kit for the build that simplifies everythign, i knwo they have it for lsvtec, add your expenses and compare rebuilding the gsr to building up a crvtec....

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as long as you keep the revs down the b20/vtec setup is good. I've heard some people complain about the cylinder walls being thin but i doubt you'd have any trouble with that with an n/a setup.

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2000 S2000 Hardtop

nine.five.four.

Get your Tuner-Junction stickers today: http://tuner-junction.com/TJForum/showthread.php?t=4377

Without giving you all sorts of advice just look here!!!

Endyn is basically the authority on building highperformance Honda engines (or any engine for that matter). They have a great write up on a stroked B20 VTEC.

The Old One - Energy Dynamics

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hey i almost went that route with my original build. some problems with the b20 is that one they stock sleeves tend to spider crack and fail under high revs all motor or boosted. so you cant rev it too much. the oil is another issue. if you are going lsvtec then you have to make sure (if you dont do the machine work yourself) that the machine shop does it correct or youll have the infamous lsvtec (crvtec) oil leak that is a bitch to fix. the other thing is that you can expect to spend 800 dollars for the block since most places sell the long block together with the head so you gotta buy both. it will cost probably close to a grand to resleeve it. Resleeving is a must from what i have seen and was told when i wanted to build one especially if you are going high compression. Personally i would do an over bore on a 1.8 bseries motor and a stroker kit. you get some more tq out of it and go with high comp pistons. like the set up you have now. To me crvtecs are over rated for the amount of hassle, headaches and reliability issues you may have down the road.



Check some of the stickies in the INTEGRA forum about ls/vtecs theres a few good write ups in there.

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Bummer, just read your other thread.

In short, I'm not a fan of B20 blocks. Better off resleeving your B18c and boring to 2.0l, although more costly.

FIRST, you need to find out what exactly is wrong and what is salvagable, unless this is an excuse to go all out and build a big monster


I think high compression, big cams and stroked B18c is the way to go.

I got dibs on the cams if your selling and they are in good shape

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~Will

88 CRX DX + 97 Spec JDM B18c(R) + some suspension goodies = Lots of fun!

JDM 4.785 final drive, ACT HDSS and Prolite 8lb flywheel, K&N, Kteller 2.5 w/magnaflow, NGK, Distributor King, Fiberimages, Koni, Neuspeed, ST rear 22mm sway bar with ITR LCA's, Konig Heliums, Russel's Brake Lines, Rywire Harness w/JKOBD, Hasport Hydro EFB2 Mounts and Linkage, Phearable.net P28, Full-Race

Thanks for the comments. Makes me wonder how long the motor is going to last for the guy in the GRM article last month with the B20vtec that is reving to 8500. Not long. Sounds like the B18c if salvageable or a B18c5 if not and more plentiful (maybe) is the way to go considering the harsh enviroment my motor will have to live in-10% street driving to get to the track and 90% on a road course wringing it out to 9K revs. The bottom end of a B18 appears more made for that in spite of the fact my let something go.

I have a buddy who knows his stuff and knows of a reliable race shop that has its own machine shop that he trusts. Probably headed that route.

Barry

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88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R

Check out jg engine dynamics..they have built alot of honda motors..and I know they can build you a monster for road racing.

http://jgenginedynamics.com/JGE%20main%20page.html

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02 psm wrx gt3076r
89 crx HF..SOLD!!!

Nice site and may be tempting. It depends on what I broke. I have two buddies that have a ton of automotive experience and one is a service manager for a car dealership that has been working on cars for over twenty years and has built racing engines many times. So I may go the buddy route and use a good machine shop here in town. If it is more extensive than I thought, it may be I might try those guys. They have the right machine shop equipment but are $$ but as the saying goes, "speed costs money how fast do you want to go?".

Barry H.

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88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R

Do you plan on running in any particular w2w series whether NASA or SCCA? I noticed you mentioned running against Chad on the other site, do you plan on running H1?

I think class rules may end up dictating your build if you decide to run competitively with either of those groups.

Perhaps a K is necessary if running H1?

If you stay B you might want to looking into getting a PR3 head because it will flow a little better then your GSR head.

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~Will

88 CRX DX + 97 Spec JDM B18c(R) + some suspension goodies = Lots of fun!

JDM 4.785 final drive, ACT HDSS and Prolite 8lb flywheel, K&N, Kteller 2.5 w/magnaflow, NGK, Distributor King, Fiberimages, Koni, Neuspeed, ST rear 22mm sway bar with ITR LCA's, Konig Heliums, Russel's Brake Lines, Rywire Harness w/JKOBD, Hasport Hydro EFB2 Mounts and Linkage, Phearable.net P28, Full-Race

ehhh.....just do another build up like what jadkar's doign :P haha

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" I think i seen a lamb still alive on the side of the road...it was still twitching....so i backed over it with my jetta " - kenny blankenship - mxc

"sex over 60, is like shooting pool with a rope"

if his gsr head is still good why get another head???? the other one flows slightly better than the gsr and he already has the gsr take it to a shop have it ported and polished and youll have the same flow rate if not better and you dont waste a head. if hes taking it apart save the money instead of buying another head and do thework on the one you already have you save time and money on it. odds ar if he buys the pr3 hes sgonna have it ported and polished anyway so why bother if hes gonna do the same work to it. just my opinion.

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there is an advance on how honda designed the gsr head..the way the chambers are made..help prevent detanation, which makes it pretty good.

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02 psm wrx gt3076r
89 crx HF..SOLD!!!