I have recently installed a Skunk2 IM, a performance fuel rail, adjustable FPR and a TB spacer. I have a d16 vtec.

There are no vacuum leaks whatsoever, I changed out the plugs, I have checked all ignition connections and sensors, turned the FPR down to 26psi, and adjusted the idle to specs with the throttle cable. I have run out of ideas. It never did this before all the mods. It would start on 2 cranks...no pedal.

When I go to start it up I have to crank it several times and lightly pump the accelerator. Once started, it runs and idles fine. It is very hard to start if I don't turn off the AC before trying to start it.

Anybody know what's going on?

Whats the FP suppose to be on the B16?

__________________

MySpace
My Shitz

I have no idea. hcarcrx told me that it was 26 psi on a D16.
I thought that I might have had it too high...38 psi, but decreasing it didn't help.

water temp sensor for vtec? I think that is the problem I had. Car was a bitch to start but once it did it idled fine. Have you check that one?

Barry H.

__________________

88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R

No, I haven't. Is there one on a SOHC vtec and where is located?
I have noticed that my temp gauge goes up some when it is over 95 degrees outside, my AC is on and I'm going up a hill and all other cooling components are working correctly. Are you talking about the TW sensor? TW=Honda jargon

But yes...it is a bitch to start but once it does, it idles and runs fine. It starts better the hotter the engine is.

You know, I think that I suggested that to you on your problem thread but you had somewhat different symptoms?

Thanks!

You know maybe it was you that gave me that advice. On my engine it is up near the top of the engine but in front of the distributor. There are two sensors right together. One got old and brittle so the connector was bad. Cheap fix. Hope that was it.

Barry H.

__________________

88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R

Yes...the one with the 2 prong plug. My plug is fine but the sensor was black and corroded. I got a new one today and put it in. I started it up a couple of times to see if it helped...it seemed better? I will know for sure in the morning when I go to start it cold.

$25 and 3 minutes to change it out. I hope that was the problem!

Thanks again for the advice. I will post up tomorrow with the results.


Quick story: When I first got my rex 3 years ago it had a D15 in it. It was extremely difficult to start, the temp gauge would move erratically and it ran crappy. At that time I knew nothing about Honda's. I finally took it in to the Honda dealership and $250 later it was fixed. They changed the water temp. sensor and the dizzy rotor. Now I could do that in my sleep.

hows the timing. I know that when the timing is advanced it will take more effort to start it

__________________

The timing is on the money. But thanks for the suggestion.

CRANK CRANK VVVRROOOOOM!!!!!!!!

It was the TW sensor (water temp.). It starts right up, runs good with the AC on, does not get hot and the gas mileage is back up where it use to be.

Damn, I'm glad I got that fixed!!!!!!

Glad it was something simple. I know it was frustrating when I had the problem.

Barry H.

__________________

88 CRX Si track car, stripped no a/c, modded B18c w/Hondata,Toda Spec B cams, bigger injectors, 72mm throttle body, ITR headers, ST cam gears, AEM fuel rail meziere water pump, fluidyne radiator, Koni adjustables/GC sleeves/Eibach ERS 450f/550r, Kosei K1 wheels w/Kumho V710 R

I spoke too soon.

It started fine the next day but got progressively worse. I got to thinking that when I installed the Skunk2 IM that I had put an OBD1 IACV on it. I had it laying around and wanted to use it. I did not think that it may be faulty, out of adjustment or was not compatible with an OBD0 system. Luckily I kept my old one and the Skunk2 takes both IACV's. I swapped it out yesterday and it started easier this morning. I have the most trouble when it sits overnight and completely cools off. When it is warm it would start fairly easily. That is what led me back to the IACV. There is also an adjustment screw on the OBD1 IACV that I did not mess with...I knew the old one worked fine so I just reinstalled it. What is/was happening is that when I start my engine it gets immediately flooded, possibly from lack of air that the IACV should be allowing to enter upon start-up. It would start after pumping the pedal several times.

I may have had 2 problems in one? CRX gremlins come in pairs.

Still not wanting to start up in the morning. I really think that it is a temp. sensetive problem. It will start fine if the engine is still warm/hot. I think that there are 2 more temp. sensors on the block? I am going to research them...possibly change both. Any suggestions?

I let my car set for about 3 days and had a really tough time starting it. I got a CEL code #8 (TDC position) to go with the code #9 (no.1 cylinder position). I changed out the dizzy, unhooked my external MSD ignition coil and set the ignition timing. It seems to be running fine. The points on the my high performance cap and the rotor were really corroded. I swapped a dizzy of of a 90' civic EX and left well enough alone. I will see if it starts easily tomorrow morning.

I have changed out the:
-dizzy
-plugs
-water temp sensor
-fuel filter
-IACV
-checked for vacuum leaks...and

It still does not start worth a shit.

Now with the replacement dizzy it ran fine for about 2 weeks then upon deceleration I got a sputter...sputter...kapow!!! then it died. I started it back up and my CEL came on, #4, #8, #9 codes came up. It still runs with the CEL on. I have not had a chance to dive under the hood as of yet. Could I be frying distributors somehow? Why won't it start worth a crap? Dammit someone tell me.

I found one thing today. I was able to narrow it down to distributor connections. The female end of the 7 pin plug on my OBD0 connector has a broken pin insert. I am not getting connection at that pin. I have another connector and will replace it tomorrow. "Cross fingers". I hope no permanent damage has been done to the dizzy.