How do I remove my flywheel without a gear ring holder? - Tuner-Junction

Moon Ill · #1 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:25 PM

I've tried a bunch of different ways* but I can't seem to out wit the rotation of the flywheel.

*Quick hit of the hammer on the ratchet
*Leverage and a quick push
*Pushing down on one end of the ratchet while pulling up on the other

The other idea is to put put another ratchet or wrench on the opposing bolt to give some resistance. The problem with that is eventually I will have one bolt left and nothing to give me resistance.

Any ideas?

Retroshark · #2 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:32 PM

yeah, i just did this and its a bitch, but there is a secret... the crank bolt is about a 19mm i think (dont quote me)

what you need to do is get a breaker bar that is about 2 feet long, put the socket on the end of the crank and basically rest the braker against the ground so that when you turn the flywheel, the bar willl be pushing against the ground which obviously wont move. id say get a friend but i know how stiff those flywheel bolts are and idk if a friend could hold the bar steady enough.

once the bar is really hitting against the ground you can use any of teh above methods to get the bolts out no problem... i just hope your using a 12pt star socket for them

jon ROCKS!!!! · #3 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:39 PM

jam a screw driver in on the teeth of the ring gear and hold on for dear life

Retroshark · #4 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:42 PM

hahahahah thats like how i got my axle nuts off... jammed a screwdriver in the caliper hole into the rotor slot and wailed on the braker til the notch on the nut bent out enough to turn it.

jon ROCKS!!!! · #5 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retroshark

hahahahah thats like how i got my axle nuts off... jammed a screwdriver in the caliper hole into the rotor slot and wailed on the braker til the notch on the nut bent out enough to turn it.

lmfao, that is why i use my 1/2 gun and axle nut sockets i have

#6 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jon ROCKS!!!!

lmfao, that is why i use my 1/2 gun and axle nut sockets i have

Retroshark · #7 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:47 PM

well i got a socket, but its still a bitch to turn it.

on that note, why would my clutch be really wimpy even after a really long bleed session where no air came out at all but even tho theres more pressure than before, it still wont disengage the clutch?? all i see happening is the small section of rubber hose that is on the lines expands a little when its depressed... is it possible that is letting the pressure jsut push that hose out instead of the slave cyl? i see no leaks and its not getting air in the lines so idk what it is?

#8 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retroshark

well i got a socket, but its still a bitch to turn it.

on that note, why would my clutch be really wimpy even after a really long bleed session where no air came out at all but even tho theres more pressure than before, it still wont disengage the clutch?? all i see happening is the small section of rubber hose that is on the lines expands a little when its depressed... is it possible that is letting the pressure jsut push that hose out instead of the slave cyl? i see no leaks and its not getting air in the lines so idk what it is?

this threads been hyjacked!

88 rex · #9 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 04:51 PM

Air tools FTW!

ATISTANG · #10 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 05:01 PM

Your crank pulley is a 17mm, and you need to invest in a air compressor and an impact

jadkar · #11 (**permalink**) July 27th, 2006, 05:35 PM

Air powered impact gun or electric impact gun.

triniskill · #12 (**permalink**) July 28th, 2006, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jadkar

Air powered impact gun or electric impact gun.

...got the new snap-on electirc impact gun..350 lb/ft torgue..thing is a beast..

jon ROCKS!!!! · #13 (**permalink**) July 28th, 2006, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by triniskill

...got the new snap-on electirc impact gun..350 lb/ft torgue..thing is a beast..

you got that new bad boy?!?!

that thing is bad as hell, i just didnt want to pay for it, my account is down to 6 bux

ATISTANG · #14 (**permalink**) July 28th, 2006, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by triniskill

...got the new snap-on electirc impact gun..350 lb/ft torgue..thing is a beast..

air tools
my 231c is rated at 600lbs I think in reverse or something close and its a cheap impact in the good tools world

Mustangeater · #15 (**permalink**) July 28th, 2006, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retroshark

well i got a socket, but its still a bitch to turn it.

on that note, why would my clutch be really wimpy even after a really long bleed session where no air came out at all but even tho theres more pressure than before, it still wont disengage the clutch?? all i see happening is the small section of rubber hose that is on the lines expands a little when its depressed... is it possible that is letting the pressure jsut push that hose out instead of the slave cyl? i see no leaks and its not getting air in the lines so idk what it is?

Your pressure plate is too stiff for the stock slave to move, thats why the rubber hose is expanding your gonna need to get steel lines for your clutch to carry enough pressure to engage and disengage the clutch, good luck with that.

Retroshark · #16 (**permalink**) July 28th, 2006, 12:04 PM

nah i fixed it, i wasnt running the stock hose, thats what got me. i ws running fuel line lol!!!

i found the hose i got with teh lines and attached it. it worked til the clamp blew off. so im off to see what i can rig up til i get it to a tranny/AC place next week.

LeMangelo · #17 (**permalink**) September 25th, 2006, 10:32 PM

To hold the flywheel put a transmission mount bolt back into the block and a pressure plate bolt back into the flywheel then loop some heavy wire like coathanger between the bolts.Retightening the flywheel bolts requires changing the arrangement of the bolts.