allright. where do i start.
this should make my car sound like a piece of trash for sure


k, from the begginning....... i have irregular idle problems that have been discussed on another thread already (jumping back and forth from 1000 1500)

im pretty sure i need to gap lifters, and valves, because my car sounds like a sewing machine

recently i bought a 89si ecu, because i didnt like the fact that my 88 rev-limited at 6500, and from there things have gone downhill.

when i started the car with the new ecu in, the idle jumping problem was worse..
and when i took it out to drive, i went easy through 1st gear, and got on the gas in 2nd at 3k.
when the car hit 4k the tach went crazy, bouncing around like a madman.
the speedometer still rolled up smoothly.

at this point im confused.
things ive done:
1. went back to the stock 88 ecu
2. replaced the fuel filter
3. cleaned the idle air control valve

aand, the problem is still here.

the idle problem only occurs when the car is up to temp
the problem with the tach needle gets worse (i think) when the car is up to temp, and only happens at/above 3500 rpms
when i drive the car easy, and keep it under under 3500 rpms, it seems to run smoothly.
im reallly confused and im not sure where to start

any guidance?

The tachometer bouncing could be one of two things: A the distributor cap and rotor are getting old (check connections under cap) or B The connector on the physical gauge cluster is dirty or not tight.

What I would do in your situation is buy a new distributor cap and rotor from Pep Boys if your current one looks a bit rough. Installing them is very easy and you shouldn't have a problem doing it yourself. You could always buy my old D16 too...

__________________

R y w i r e . c o m - G e t _ R y w i r e d .
Engine Swap Wire Harness Conversions and ECU Conversion Harnesses
My parts for sale

what it sounds like to me is you had a bad ecu in the first place and you got another bad ucu to replace it. try www.phearable.net . thats where i got my chipped p29 from. ill swear by them. i had some weird problems too way worse then yours, and i suspected the ecu to be the cause. i replaced it with one of theirs and no more problems. youd be supprised how common faulty computers are. some people could even have a bad ecu and have no symptoms of it, they just think the car is runing normal.

__________________
´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ }<((((((º>
`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ ><((((*>

WTB...92-96 lude jdm or usdm oem fog lights

i didnt mention that i Have infact felt the car missing when the rpms go crazy......
it almost feels like a fuel cut or maybe lack of spark for a split second

the connections on the cap/rotor were getting some build-up, but i cleaned them about a month ago...

thanks for the input...... maybe cleaning wasnt enough, and it just needs replacing.

what about the coil?

EDIT:
i dont Think the 88 ecu was bad.... i never had any problems besides idle which could have been a number of other things

if the 89 ecu was bad, im not sure why im still having problems since i switched it back

For the idle problem .... http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259965

__________________

'93 civic
Brad

well the problem with the bouncing tach is going to be inside your distrubitor, the ingitor to be exact! like you said "it almost feels like a fuel cut or maybe lack of spark for a split second" That is becouse infact it is not getting spark .
also if bad hondas link does not help , make sure to bleed your cooland system. when the coolant temp sensor sees a fluxation fast it will mess with your idle.

makes alot of sense. i didnt think of that.
should probably check the wires too i guess.
i also dont remember if i ever checked the gap in the plugs

i have a few more things to try now, thanks.

My suggestion is to go and do a full tune up. Test your ecu in another car that you know is running perfectly. fuel system cleaner could help.

Only use a fuel system cleaner if your motor is under 100,000kms (I dunno wtf miles that is). It could generate more problems otherwise.

I had the same problem last year and it was my IACV. Had it replaced and it was back to normal.

__________________

My car is now doing the exact same thing. Except if I disconect the Map sensor vac line when it's warm the idle smooths out. But the engine dies if I disconect the map line when it's cold. The engine revs like crazy if I disconect any other vac lines from the manifold. It runs like crap above 4000 rpm no matter what I do. This just happened after I removed a 89 A6 from my car and installed an 88. Both engines ran smooth before the swap. The only thing that changed was the vac. control assembly. (the purge selenoids and the map sensor). By the way I haven't installed the 88 ECU yet. I figured it should be the same. Don't mean to thread jack, but I figured it's related.

__________________
1991 CRX HF with a D16a6 swap.
OBX Short shifter, E-bay intake, SI rims, SI front brakes, SI radiator, KYB AGX shocks all around,
Tenzo R seats
Comming this tax season- Turbo A6

yeah, my problems seemed to start when i went from an 88 ecu to an 89 ecu...
i was pretty sure it would be plug and play, but im wondering if the ecu swap caused the problems..
it makes sense though that the problem is in the distributor, because it definitely feels like spark cut above 4k rpms.
ive cleaned the terminals and such, but i think i might just replace the dizzy...
i'll keep posted on anything i figure out.

Well, mine is running good now and I say good not great because it hesitates when you stomp on the gas. It's like the engine takes a big breath right before it accelerates. The idle problem and stalling seem to be gone. I just had to replace the map sensor with the original HF sensor, but the key is to disconect the battery and ground the cable to reset the ECU. I had tried replacing the map before and it didn't work cause I never reset the ECU. So make sure you do that between each thing you try. Your ECU is probably fine. Anyone got any ideas on why my car hesitates? I know my valve lash is out of spec, so I am about to go adjust those. Could that cause it?

__________________
1991 CRX HF with a D16a6 swap.
OBX Short shifter, E-bay intake, SI rims, SI front brakes, SI radiator, KYB AGX shocks all around,
Tenzo R seats
Comming this tax season- Turbo A6

Well the idle problem is back!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm lost

__________________
1991 CRX HF with a D16a6 swap.
OBX Short shifter, E-bay intake, SI rims, SI front brakes, SI radiator, KYB AGX shocks all around,
Tenzo R seats
Comming this tax season- Turbo A6

I fixed it!!! I did what it said in the link above to SHO. The idle problem was the eacv valve. Mine did everything yours did. I thought it was a fuel cut or something when above 4000rpm, but I think the EACV valve gets stuck open and it allows too much air in and causes a very lean condition. At idle the lean condition causes the engine to rev. I just removed the EACV valve and installed one from another engine I knew ran OK. Then adjusted ignition timming. Runs Great now!

__________________
1991 CRX HF with a D16a6 swap.
OBX Short shifter, E-bay intake, SI rims, SI front brakes, SI radiator, KYB AGX shocks all around,
Tenzo R seats
Comming this tax season- Turbo A6

awesome man, thanks for the info.