Mysterious Battery Drain - Tuner-Junction

Juicy19 · #1 (**permalink**) April 12th, 2006, 12:29 PM

OK, I've been trying to figure out why my battery won't hold a charge. The CRX is just a project now, so it doesn't get driven much at all - it's not even registered yet. One of the problems I'm having is losing the battery charge when it sits.

A little background: the car is completely stock accept for the stereo and a disc changer in the back. I bought the car this way.

Things I have done so far to try and locate the problem:
1) Unhook the cd changer (can't get it to work and it's pop riveted to the cargo separator and causing damage)
2) Attach test light to neg cable and touched neg terminal on battery. it lit up. this means there's a drain somewhere, correct? I pulled every dash fuse (1 at a time) and the fuses in the engine bay. My girlfriend was manning the light and said there was no change from the light when each fuse was pulled out. If i'm not mistaken, if a certain electrical component was causing the drain, when the fuse was pulled, the light should have dimmed. Is this correct?
3) Took alternator to autozone to get tested. it passed.

I don't know what else to do and i'm getting sick of jumping it everytime I want to run it. Please offer some help/advice.

Thanks!

One other thing...the battery is new. not more than 2 months old.

hcarcrx · #2 (**permalink**) April 12th, 2006, 07:31 PM

i would take a volt meter and go thue each one of your grounds and make sure they are good, then do the same with the positive leads comming off your battery. Make sure you don't have a dome light on or the cargo light that is in the passanger side of the hatch

Rhythm Kid · #3 (**permalink**) April 12th, 2006, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juicy19

OK, I've been trying to figure out why my battery won't hold a charge. The CRX is just a project now, so it doesn't get driven much at all - it's not even registered yet. One of the problems I'm having is losing the battery charge when it sits.

A little background: the car is completely stock accept for the stereo and a disc changer in the back. I bought the car this way.

Things I have done so far to try and locate the problem:
1) Unhook the cd changer (can't get it to work and it's pop riveted to the cargo separator and causing damage)
2) Attach test light to neg cable and touched neg terminal on battery. it lit up. this means there's a drain somewhere, correct? I pulled every dash fuse (1 at a time) and the fuses in the engine bay. My girlfriend was manning the light and said there was no change from the light when each fuse was pulled out. If i'm not mistaken, if a certain electrical component was causing the drain, when the fuse was pulled, the light should have dimmed. Is this correct?
3) Took alternator to autozone to get tested. it passed.

I don't know what else to do and i'm getting sick of jumping it everytime I want to run it. Please offer some help/advice.

Thanks!

One other thing...the battery is new. not more than 2 months old.

You just tested for continuity, it will light up regardless if it has voltage running through it. Your testing for an excessive parasitic draw. Your on the right track, but your using the wrong tool

Try conducting a battery drain test. This test should pin point were your parasitic drains are coming from. Grab yourself an ammeter, chuck the test light to the side

1) Close all doors, shut off all lights, make sure there is absolutly no extra load on the battery.

2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect the ammeter in series with it.

3) You should be reading about .20 amps or less, if not, yes you have a component with an excessive drain.

4) Do as you did before and unplug the fuses from your fuse panel, one by one.

5) If your amp reading drops below .25 amps when you pull that certain fuse, that circuit that the fuse is protecting is the source of your excessive drain.

6) Fix that biznatch....

Hope that helped...

jadkar · #4 (**permalink**) April 12th, 2006, 11:25 PM

^^

Awesome advice right there

I'll bet money on your stereo (if it's not OEM). But, if you have an alarm it will be that first.

Just my experience with that type of stuff

mad-ass · #5 (**permalink**) April 13th, 2006, 12:54 AM

Xarga is reading that book from his school hard core I tell you!!!

Juicy19 · #6 (**permalink**) April 13th, 2006, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rhythm Kid

You just tested for continuity, it will light up regardless if it has voltage running through it. Your testing for an excessive parasitic draw. Your on the right track, but your using the wrong tool

Try conducting a battery drain test. This test should pin point were your parasitic drains are coming from. Grab yourself an ammeter, chuck the test light to the side

1) Close all doors, shut off all lights, make sure there is absolutly no extra load on the battery.

2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect the ammeter in series with it.

3) You should be reading about .20 amps or less, if not, yes you have a component with an excessive drain.

4) Do as you did before and unplug the fuses from your fuse panel, one by one.

5) If your amp reading drops below .25 amps when you pull that certain fuse, that circuit that the fuse is protecting is the source of your excessive drain.

6) Fix that biznatch....

Hope that helped...

Awesome advice! Thanks buddy. Where do I pick up an ammeter at - any autoparts store? Just to be sure, the battery needs to be fully charged, right?

Jadkar - there's no alarm and I'm with you on the stereo/cd changer being the culprit.

I'll be sure to let you guys know the problem. Thanks again!

Rhythm Kid · #7 (**permalink**) April 13th, 2006, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mad-ass

Xarga is reading that book from his school hard core I tell you!!!

My notes you poon snatch...my notes!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juicy19

Awesome advice! Thanks buddy. Where do I pick up an ammeter at - any autoparts store? Just to be sure, the battery needs to be fully charged, right?

Jadkar - there's no alarm and I'm with you on the stereo/cd changer being the culprit.

I'll be sure to let you guys know the problem. Thanks again!

Yeah you can. You should invest in a multimeter which is A voltmeter, Ammeter, and Ohmmeter all in one...or borrow one .___.

Juicy19 · #8 (**permalink**) April 21st, 2006, 10:52 AM

OK, so I haven't had a chance to run a test with a multimeter/ammeter. I haven't found one that didn't look cheap as hell. Plus, I've had to check out my brakes, so the battery drain took a back seat.

Anyways, I got the car back down on all 4 last night and decided to try and start her up. Again, the battery is dead. BUT, the negative cable has been disconnected the whole time. Does this mean there's a problem with the Positive Cable? I looked briefly at the cable and it didn't appear too tight. If it isn't tightened down on the terminal real well, could this cause a battery drain?

Let me know what you all think.

Thanks.

ARKANSASCRX · #9 (**permalink**) April 21st, 2006, 05:20 PM

Take the battery and have it tested. Sounds like a bad cell. You may need another one. Every once in a while you will get a defective one.

hcarcrx · #10 (**permalink**) April 21st, 2006, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juicy19

OK, so I haven't had a chance to run a test with a multimeter/ammeter. I haven't found one that didn't look cheap as hell. Plus, I've had to check out my brakes, so the battery drain took a back seat.

You can go to radio shack and get a decent one for a not many bills