so i now have a 2000 hatch, and i'm looking to get rid of the pokey d16 non-vtech under the hood. the problem is, i don't know if i should do the c5, or an h22. i know that the h22 has more power, but it also weighs more. wasn't sure if it was worth the weight to go for the h22 or not. any help would be appreciated. thanks

what is the purpose of your build? auto-x, drag, street?
whats your budget?

I think the weight difference is about 80lbs. but Im not sure if Im recalling that corectly. so let me know if that number is off

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Age old debate my friend. Don't discount the B16 either...for the money it's a great value.
I think your best choice though will be a C1. You save a grand over the C5, it's a B-series, which fit better (ease of mounting, clearance, etc) than H22's and you can reach C5 power levels with a few bolt ons. If you don't mind spending the extra money for the C5 it is pretty sweet to have and you get the LSD in the transmission. But if money really is no object just go all out with the K20 swap.
IMO the C1 is best though or any JDM B18C. Good luck

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what are your hp goals/budget/purpose?

And it's vtec.

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2000 S2000 Hardtop

nine.five.four.

Get your Tuner-Junction stickers today: http://tuner-junction.com/TJForum/showthread.php?t=4377

H22 for straight line/ torque monster
C5 for turns/ sky high redline

your choice

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'98 Base Prelude: Injen SRI, Mugen header, full 2.5"exhaust w/Carsound cat. & A'PEXi N1 , Exedy Stage 1 w/9.6lb flywheel, AEM fuel rail/regulator, front upper strut bar, SPC camber kit, H&R race springs, MSD wires, NGK iridiums, Optima red top

pretty much it all depend on what you want as goals..
you can go with either motor...
I'd say go with the C5..it pretty much has hondas best parts for there b series motors in there...better cams, valvetrain components..etc
but if you want to go a lil cheaper..you can go b18c1 and put some goodies in there and make some good power..plus like what scottigee said..its like 1000 cheaper then a C5.

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02 psm wrx gt3076r
89 crx HF..SOLD!!!

ok, i guess i really didn't say exactly what i was looking for. its gonna be a daily driver, i just want something to have fun with. take to the strip on the weekends. it really can't have too much torque either. i live in the midwest, and the town i live in doesn't like to plow their roads. traction is good... so based on everything u guys have already said, the b series is the way to go. money really doesn't matter, cause i'm not paying for it anyway. but i also know that the person that IS paying for it, won't pay 10K for the k20 swap.

I wouldn't buy a B18C5 if I had to do it all over again. As soon as you touch anything on the engine you threw away the whole "ITR" legend. You're better off (if you want to stay B) to go GSR and then work that engine over time.

Or else you will end up like me, the only thing that's ITR on my engine these days is the red valve cover

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appairently all the information i've recieved has been wrong, i was always told that the c5 was the gsr motor...

b18c1 = gsr

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and....

B18C5 = US type R
B18C-r = JDM type R

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what john has said is an arguement ive waged for a very long time. the min you take anything off the itr motor and replace the whole ITR thing is gone and done with. youre better with a b18c1(gsr) and bulding it from there. there isnt too much of a difference in the bear heads and blocks fromboth motors anyway. nothing a couple hundred bux cant correct or improve upon from the itr. You can get the gsr cheaper and with the extra money buy aftemarket and make it faster than the itr and youll have spent the same amount of money but have more whp for your money.



PLUS WHATS THE F'ING POINT OF SPENDING 5G'S ON A FREAKING TYPE-R MOTOR JUST TO SWAP OUT ALL THE FUCKING PARTS ANYWAY????????

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Been there done that......twice!! The point is everyone who goes the ITR route usually thinks...."I'll drop the ITR in there and be done with it" Unfortunately when you do this you realize you still have Acura TLs kicking your ass. So you start messing around from there....and then you're done!!

I only personally know one person who actually left his ITR engine alone. However, I know he wants more

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The H2B is a nice option you should consider. The H has a ton of potential and the availability of parts is starting to expand.

I like my B18c, but I'm having trouble spending more money on power when I have other issues to perfect.....suspension, chassi, tires, transmission.

I have an NA build in my head and boosted build in my head. No $$$ to do either right now, and I won't start collecting parts for either one until it's definite.

If I were the OP, I might consider the H22a with the H2B adapter. The extra torque would be nice for a DD and to move the around the heavier EK. The potential is there also.

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~Will

88 CRX DX + 97 Spec JDM B18c(R) + some suspension goodies = Lots of fun!

JDM 4.785 final drive, ACT HDSS and Prolite 8lb flywheel, K&N, Kteller 2.5 w/magnaflow, NGK, Distributor King, Fiberimages, Koni, Neuspeed, ST rear 22mm sway bar with ITR LCA's, Konig Heliums, Russel's Brake Lines, Rywire Harness w/JKOBD, Hasport Hydro EFB2 Mounts and Linkage, Phearable.net P28, Full-Race

dude i have a motor ide sell you for a cheaper price than the itr motor and give you more power. if youre interested in buying an engine pm me i can give you details about the mtoor its properly built and no cheap parts or cut corners etc. potential to hit well over 200whp. its a gsr i have papers and what not for it. pm me for more details.


On topic. the amount of parts available for the b18c1 is way bigger than the parts list for the H series motor. you have so many more choices that its almost gauranteed youll be able to do what you want with the b series.

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