I recently been busy changing the setup for my ride...

I changed my 195/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE711s to 195/55/15 Advan Neova AD07s...

My Lenso wheels' offset is 38... while running with my Tein N/As with SARD springs, the new tyres did not clear my fenders.... so I decided to shop around again (sigh...) and my friend of mine has got a beautiful set of Kayaba adjustables with pillow mounts on all fours! (I'm stupid, I forgot to take pics before it got put into my car)... the back springs are Kayaba but the front has been upgraded to kg/mm springs... diameter of the shaft of the shocks is bout 2 inches!

ok... so now the question... my car is still at the shop checking for adjustments of the toe, caster camber degree etc... what should i ask them to do?

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.EG6.B16A.

i just got my car back...

sigh.. more adjustments to be made... the height is an inch higher than what i was expecting (i'm using a fellow EG6er's car as a bench mark as we're using the same tyre profile and i'm quite comfortable with his height when driving his car esp in our car parks which is no place for any car which is lowered)..

it feels like a stock car now too
judge for urself...



cambers are 1.2 in front and 0.8 at the moment.. will do the adjustments on the height by this saturday.. i'm letting the shocks settle in.. it might drop a couple of centimetres...

any photo requests?

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.EG6.B16A.

for double wishbone suspension geometries u dont have to run as much camber as macpherson however ur running extremely conservative

i run 3 front and 2.5 rear.....i actually prefer the feel of 1.5 at the rear but this is rwd and totally different susp. geometry

i think u should run more camber regardless. thats way too conservative. u'll prolly end up noticing more EVEN tyre wear with more camber. you have to think of the contact patch under load. of course it has to also do with tyre pressures but thats more of a fine tuning aspect.

its toe which kills tyres. static toe and remember dynamic toe(under load) u get squating of the car and the corresponding arms. so toe-in helps to keep the rear tucked in if u want to dial it in. 2-3mm is noticeable.

slight toe out at the front may make the front end a tiny tiny bit unstable at high speed. but thats a SMALL trade-off for good turn in. once again. try 2-3mm first and go from there.

suspension is a real fine balancing act. u can never have everything. and u just tend to 'drive around' the set up's short comings

in terms of offsets/fitment: well i dont see the relevance. but ur's sucks balls right now lol

remember each degree camber = 5mm top of wheel goes further in

so if u want to go flush/good fitment. then simple rules

1. no tyre/fender gap (tucking tyre is the shit)
2. get tyres closest to limit of the fender. (if u want a good camber set up. then u'll most likely have to run spacers to get it flush). just measure the gap and get the right amount of spacing required.

this is all taking into consideration that ur keeping the same tyre set up and wheel set up. (mind you. going a slightly higher profile. means that its alot easier to tuck tyre without going 'as' low. but different companies have variances in side wall dimensions REGARDLESS of the value it states)

using spacers at the front esp. will change ur scrub radius as well.

changing scrub radius will 1. theoretically extend the fulcrum leverage thus making the spring rates of the coilovers feel a lil softer. so u can run more aggressive/harder damper rates (not that many of these coilovers damper adjustment dialing does much)

2. enables greater turn in. so u may not even need toe out. see how u feel.

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Baller genetics...difficult takes a day....impossible takes a week