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March 8th, 2006, 07:01 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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starting and brake light problems
wow, my time posting a thread on this site!
but anyways... after getting my car back from the shop i noticed my car would have trouble starting sometimes.
The engine wouldnt' turn when i turn the ignition.. it would just "click" as if the battery were dead. but after about 3-4 attempts of turning the ignition it starts with no hesitation.... im thinking its the ignition coil? spark plugs maybe (hopefully)?
second problem.. my emergency brake light is on even when the brake is down.
i know it means that theres low brake fluid; but the fluid is fine. Also when you have worn brake pads you need more fluid to pump them, this can be another cause. however, i just recently changed all four of my pads.... I noticed on the brake reservoir the little sensor thing was unplugged.. i plugged those back up still the light is on..
again this happened after i took it home from the shop...
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March 8th, 2006, 07:27 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 2
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what did they do at the shop, what work was performed
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March 8th, 2006, 07:28 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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they did absolutely nothing... and charged me 170..
basically clutch master cylinder work... bleeding, adjusting pedal, and tighting a loose screw... :mad:basicaly 15 minutes of work.
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March 8th, 2006, 07:31 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 2
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just wanted to make sure the problem wasn't related. Have the battery tested first. That's free at a local auto parts store. If its good. You have to find out if its not getting spark or fuel.
Brakes, check the fluid. and the seal for the resiovor
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March 8th, 2006, 07:39 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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i already checked the fluid.. it that wire on the reservor a sensor?
seal is fine..
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March 8th, 2006, 09:13 PM
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TJ Wanabe
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 93
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starting problem: i would trace it to a bad starter or a battery going dead. The latter will have a battery light lit(if the alternator is going dead also) on the dash. Take it to local autozone or auto parts store and have your battery/alternator tested. Bad ignition is noticeable by unhealthy idling/engine performance or plain and simple it will not start. Fouled plugs, it will run rough. as for the brake light coming on, check the simple things like the e-brake sensor and so forth and then take it to a repuatable shop.
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March 8th, 2006, 09:15 PM
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TJ Wanabe
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 93
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if it is your starter, the starter is real easy to replace and is quite cheap. its like 60dollars at a auto parts store with the core exchange. if your car is a auto, the starter will be on the back of the tranny, if 5spd, it will be on the front. removing the battery and the battery tray will ease your installation. in all it shouldn't take more than 30minutes with simple hand tools
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Revolution is now Televised!
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March 8th, 2006, 11:17 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY/RI
Posts: 537
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for the brake light, you might want to make sure the cap is installed facing the right direction...also just take off the cap and reinstall it to see if that cures up the light. if not then check the ebrake switch in the center console
as far as the starting issue, it sounds like the starter is on its way out
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BK - 1994 CD7
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March 9th, 2006, 12:42 AM
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Ultimate Shield
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Harrisburg / Millersville, PA
Posts: 208
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rather then thinking of the big problems....troubleshoot the small ones.
The starting issue could be caused by a loose connection. Check and make sure the battery terminals are secure. This is a simple diagnosis to your problem, and often times correcting this problem is as simple as removing the terminal, scraping away any corrosion/battery acid, and securely reattaching.
For the Brakes. Try resetting the ecu. After fixing the plug the vehicle may not recognize the correction. Remove battery terminal for about 20 min. During this time you can crape away any corrosion or anything that may be interfering with the signal (causing problem #1)
lobes,
teh hondaguy
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March 9th, 2006, 01:35 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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thanks for all the help guys. i'll be sure to update
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March 9th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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sorry for all the neutral reps guys! i forgot that i dont have enough posts for positives to actually work.
but brake light is off.. the problem was a dirty sensor...
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March 16th, 2006, 02:12 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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battery tested good.. when i went in to get my alternator tested the guy at advance said your positive clamp is a little loose and will give a inaccurate reading.
i buy a new clamp and put it in. the problem is still there.. i then proceed to go to advance to get the alternator checked out since the clamp is now secure.
i start the car how i would normally do it.. it takes about 2-4 clicks. this time when the car started i hear a winding noise.. i quickly turn off the car to seek the problem. when i turn of the car, the car starts to crank! it does it non stop.. but doesnt start.. when i crank the car myself it starts fine, but the noise is still there.
i had to disconnect the battery for it to stop cranking while the car is off...
now i can't even reconnect the battery. it sparks like crazy when i try to put the negative back on.
i have no clue what could be wrong..
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March 16th, 2006, 03:42 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY/RI
Posts: 537
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sounds like you're having a major starting system issue...it could be the ignition switch since that must be sending current to the starter solenoid for it to actuate. This might be helpful to you:

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BK - 1994 CD7
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March 16th, 2006, 05:15 PM
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Fresh Meat
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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i'll check that.. but how do i check for continuity? im not fully understanding the diagram..
do you think a bad start could be a cause of this?
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March 16th, 2006, 06:51 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY/RI
Posts: 537
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i hope chatting with you cleared that up...if you need anything else let me know 
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BK - 1994 CD7
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March 22nd, 2006, 04:10 AM
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Made Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New York.
Posts: 193
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Teawins21
battery tested good.. when i went in to get my alternator tested the guy at advance said your positive clamp is a little loose and will give a inaccurate reading.
i buy a new clamp and put it in. the problem is still there.. i then proceed to go to advance to get the alternator checked out since the clamp is now secure.
i start the car how i would normally do it.. it takes about 2-4 clicks. this time when the car started i hear a winding noise.. i quickly turn off the car to seek the problem. when i turn of the car, the car starts to crank! it does it non stop.. but doesnt start.. when i crank the car myself it starts fine, but the noise is still there.
i had to disconnect the battery for it to stop cranking while the car is off...
now i can't even reconnect the battery. it sparks like crazy when i try to put the negative back on.
i have no clue what could be wrong..
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Its a realy easy fix from what youve said the starter solenoid is bad, sometimes it works car starts sometimes it doesnt car wont start. All you need to do is replace the starter its way easier than rebuilding it yourself or trying to replace the soleniod, the reason it kept cranking with key off is because the brushes in the solenoid have melted to the contacts,replace starter problem solved seen it many times.
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