On a 6th gen civic, any time you lower the car, you will increase negative camber. The more you lower it, the more negative camber you get. Negative camber increases tire wear (over time, not as bad a toe though... but that's a discussion in another thread)

Even with the relatively mild 0.75" drop front and back from the H&R OE sports, I noticed negative camber. Someone used a rule of thumb of ~2 washers per 1" drop. However in my experience, I found that one washer was quite enough for the 0.75 drop. I post alignment results when I get them. Also, it depends on the thickness of the washers you use.

Washer trick: (assuming you've already got the car up on stands with tire off)

Parts needed:
- 4 bolts 10mm x 1.25mm x 40mm; diameter/thread pitch/bolt length
- 10mm washers in groups of 4; ie, if you want to do 2 washers thick, then you need 4x2= 8 washers total.

1) Place a jack under the LCA and put it up a bit. You'll see why in the next step.

2) Get a 14mm socket (you'll probably need extensions) and loosen the two bolts connecting the upper control arm (UCA) to the chassis. As you loosen, the UCA will be pulled in a direction depending upon how high you are jacking up the LCA. Adjust the jack height so the UCA naturally wants to line up with the bolts. This will make it very easy to pull the bolts out.

3) Put as many washers (10mm) as needed BETWEEN the UCA and the chassis. If you use more than one washer (maybe two), you'll probably need to buy new bolts. You can get bolts at Home Depot (10mm x 1.25mm x 40mm; diameter/thread pitch/bolt length). Bolt length, you'll need to decide for yourself.

Make sure to put an equal number of washers on each bolt. I used one for each bolt for my 0.75" drop. That's 1 per bolt, 2 bolts per side, 2 side = 1 * 2 * 2 = 4 washers total.


4) Screw the bolts back in and moderately tighten, but not up to torque (less than 29 ft-lbs). Jack the LCA up higher till the car just begins to lift off the stands, and torque the UCA bolts to 29 ft-lbs. Lower jack and you're done!